Saturday, December 27, 2008

A Tale of Two Hemispheres

Taipei lives in a fishbowl; a valley surr- ounded by marauding mountain-scapes. This poses a difficult orientation dillema: to venture north on Yangmingshan's classic path or explore the dying adventurelands of Taipei's fading south? Each direction proffers unique snipits of Taipei lifestyle and stunning scenery, making, of course, either decision a good one. This entry into Taiwanablog will reveal some hidden and delightful scense from the Rose Compass Class Struggle- a presentation of both up and down.


With Yangminshan towering the northern edge of Taipei, it's easy to ignore the city's southern hemisphere- so let's begin with the low life. On a bright and warm winter morning, I took off for the last MRT stop on the green line in Xindian and paraded around until I found the trail head for Lion's Head mountain. It wasn't long before I was among the green and birds and the KTV. One of the quintessential idiosynchrasies of this country is that, regardless of which trail you embark on, you have a 98% chance (I've done the math) of finding either a KTV restaurant or a makeshift excercise platform complete with balance beams and hula hoops.


Lion's Head gives great views of the lower half of Taipei, from the Xindian Creek around to the Da'an section of Taipei. Lion's Head isn't very difficult to climb- the stairs are not plentiful but the views are. And with a good oscillation of ascending and descending, I think it's safe to put this hike at a beginner's level.


The real charm of Xindian, however, is not on the peaks of Lion's Head mountain. No, in reality, the true treasure is the cultural masterpiece of Pitan. A five minute walk through markets and street vendors, you arrive in no time at all. A few years ago, the historic landmark of this area- it's massive suspension bridge- was targeted for replacement. But due to local community involvement, the bridge was saved and finally repaired. Today, you can still walk over Xindian Creek from the bridge and admire the festivities below.


Already being early evening, I watched young lovers take walks on the river queue and families take out the swan peddle boats for a ride around the river. The scene was passive and enjoyable. A local musician played admirably and fortunately drowned out the sounds of the karaoke coming from the mountains. It was like a carnival that had the magic without the rides.

Speaking of no rides, Pitan used to be famous for another thing- an amusement park. A fatal accident on one of the rides promptly shut the operatio
n down. Now all that remains are a few foundations and dilapidated buildings covered in faded Disney murals. Topped off with a large number of stray dogs roaming the area, the whole place had a somewhat eerie feel to it despite the bright sunny day.


Shaking off the glory days gone by, I proceeded down
to Taiwans Airforce cemetary. The arrangement is peaceful and respectful, albiet a bit off with the tombs nothing but a massive outgrowth from the ground covered in bright blue. It was almost like a burial at sea if you ask me.



At the back of the the cemetary lies a massive staircase with an imposing place of wiship at the summit. Introduced by a soaring eagle, it is a fittin
g place of remeberence to those who fought in the skies.



Thus is Xindian. But for Taipei's ying, there is also it's yang. A Steven to it's Alec, if you will (or maybe that ought to be reversed, I am not sure). But alas, on the other side of this city lies the much more affluent quickly growing northern edge. Cutting between Yangmingshan and Neihu (Taipei's northern district) is a slim ridge of mountains that contains a relatively easy path from Shilin, home of Taipei's famous night Market, to Neihu, where I used to teach English.


The path is actually one of the easiest around Tapei as it is mostly flat along the top of the ridge. A few stairs at the beginning and end provide the only real challenge to this whole trek. But once atop this ridge, you are leisurely afforded some of the finest panoramic views and trek has to offer of Taipei.


Toward the end of the hike, you have to scrawl out onto a rocky ledge with wind blowing swiftly past you and nothing but other hikers joining for the show. The majority of these hikers are of course college students and old folks (old folks outnumber the college students about 3:1) trying to enjoy the same thing you are.


And what are they enjoying? Perhaps one of the most breathtaking images of the city that will, for as long as you live, never once leave you.


From your Dickens imitating, lequaciously escapading explorer of the Taipei woods, Michael.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

The Chrysanthemums Commeth

What could be the most exciting thing in the world to do? Visit the Taipei 2008 Chrysan- themum exhibition of course! With one of the worlds largest varieties of chrysanthemums, ranging from the blue ones to the yellow ones, any Chrysanthemum enthusiast would be buzzing like the bees sipping the nectar of the flowers on display. Local junior high school musical entertainment pushed the day's frenzy over the edge for some as the majority of the visitors started swinging their canes and walkers around in a fevered passion.


The exhibition was held on the grounds of the presidential palace and former resident of Chiang Kai Shek. The sun shine and street vendors made all the horticulturalists present giddy and yelp for glee at every breathtaking arrangement.

But I suppose the most entertaining of the show was an enormous face designed by carved shrubberies and strategically placed, wait for it, YES- Chrysanthemums. He reminds me of someone I know, but being caught in the excitement of the day, I couldn't be bothered to remember the particulars of my past.


Well, with the excitement finally subsiding and a whole year before the dangerously hyped Chrysanthemum show of 2009, I pray that this city can get back to a working order and manage to regain whatever dignity was lost during our rampaging excitement during the flower show. From your afloriculturalist of Taiwan, Michael.

Skepticism on the Subway

It was like any other day. But, for me, any other day is not like any of your days.

I had just said goodbye for the last time to a friend heading back to England when I boarded the subway. I waited patiently for the train to finally come, and once it did, I boarded it and took a seat. Sounds fine enough, right?

Well, as I sat down at my seat, this young man and woman, two complete strangers, started smiling at me. The girl politely said, "Hello" and I returned with an equally polite, "hello". Nothing too strange about this occurrence yet.

Well, as soon as I got off the train, the two strangers came up to me and said, "Hello, Michael."

How did they know my name?

My first reaction was to take a closer look and see if I knew who these people were. Perhaps past students that I had just misplaced momentarily. But no, they were bonafide strangers that had taken an interest in me and clearly had some back story gossip. Naturally they aroused my suspicions, so I inquired, "I'm sorry, do I know you two?"

"No. Hi, I am Wilson and this is Jenny." (That's good, I didn't forget their names.)
"
Jenny is a fortune teller. We think you're very handsome." (Ok, not so good anymore.)

Well, what was I to believe- that these two mind readers are able to walk onto a subway, approach a complete stranger and telepathically deduce his name? At this point, two stalkers would probably be more plausible, and in reality, less creepy.

We talked for a bit, about how Jenny does palm readings to support her law education at Taiwan National University while Wilson works in films. Not sure what kind of films- just know he in the industry somehow.

Well, it finally came to the point where we were separating ways an I couldn't handle not knowing the source of her psychic powers. I asked them, "Ok, before you leave, how did you know my name? And do you have any information on tomorrow's lottery numbers?"

They told me that they over heard my friend saying "Goodbye Michael" in the Subway at the start of this story. So I guess, as it turns out, my stalker hypothesis was correct after all. I am sure they are somehow in cahoots with the crazy lady that made me dinner that one time.

From your American living in a future time zone, and not the actual future, Michael.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Tis the Season

It's the holiday season again here in Taipei: my second one away from home. A few weeks ago, the turkey was passed around on Thanksgiving along with some delicious gourmet treats brought along by my friends. Joanne and her flatmates whipped up some potatoes (literally) and some homemade stuffing and gravy. Zuhey and her mom brought an extra special set of Tamales steamed to perfection. Tom made some spicy mulled wine that has inspired us all to drink more. And I, the host, carved our glorious bird. (I must admit my carving skills improved dramatically over last year's attempt when I had to carve it with a butter knife!)


Now with the American Holiday Exclusivity at an end, Taipei has been in full swing ringing in the Christmas cheer. How, you might ask, does a country composed primarily of Daoists and Bhuddists celebrate Christmas? Well, commercially of course!


I suppose the scene might not be so awkward to our Floridian residents here in Taipei, but for a Yankee that has spent over 20 Christmases in a foot of snow in Old New England, a Christmas sans the white stuff is a relatively strange experience. But the addition of Christmas trees and lights from around Taipei's glitz and kitsch make the holidays a bit warmer (and I suppose the shorts and tee-shirt weather help out a bit too).

Right across the street from me, at the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, lies an extraordinary display of lights and shine. A tree rises marvelously in the center and the evening lumiere rivals that of Taipei 101. Down in the Plaza rests some shopping centers, food stores and essentials to welcome Santa Clause (including a US$60 Turkey).


Down the road a bit is the Sogo Department center which rivals the best set up at Disney world.


They even have a singing clock which I am sure is based off our childhood favorite "It's a small world."


Then just a short walk from there is the infamous Taipei 101 with its vast array of Christmas Feeling. Enjoy these short snapshots of a "Green Christmas" in Taipei.



But any reasonable soul knows it's not how the central park is decorated or how many presents are under the tree. What matters most is who you spend the season of joy with, as it is your friends that make the times worth what they are. It's amazing to look back over the year and be thankful for what you have and those you have met.


I've been lucky to have known a great many people here in Taipei. But it is always sad to miss those who have moved on to other things- like Kate, Tony, Kirit, Sarah- particularly at the holiday time. As we met for our Christmas Feast at my place, I looked around and saw only one or two faces I have known since first arriving here. But more importantly, I saw many new faces that have become great friends to me. None of us are certainly alone this year! So, as I often raise a glass and toast, "Here's to new friends, to old friends, and to new friends becoming old friends!"


Now- in the spirit of Tradition- I want to give you a holiday poem. This one comes back a few years, to my Junior year of college, and was written by the very lovely and talented Andrea Packard. She claims it goes to the tune of Jingle Bells, but don't try too hard to put the lyrics and melody together because the plan was obviously suspended halfway through! Here's to you AP!

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…

Mike is drinking wine,
While Suki’s turning red,
Kristin’s lookin’ for a dime,
And Ing fell of the bed!

HA HA HA

Tyler‘s footloose dancin‘,
Chris is M.I.A.,
Meanwhile Jon is tackled
By A.P. yelling “haaaaaaaayyyyyy!”

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Gagen’s freek-a-leekin’ to Petey Pablo,
There are red marks on Erin’s neck,
Here comes campus po,
Oh SH**, what the heck?!

“Hark-nasty” Liz Lingo sings,
Glory to playing kings!

Melissa’s all up in that area today,
Stef is cracking up,
Britt’s going to Barcelona - OLAY!

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Sam hails from Milwaukee,
Julia’s “like wooooooooooohh,”
It’s ladies nite for The O.C.
Dontcha’ know?

Here’s to countless beers and cheers
And more crazy times throughout the years!

Plowing through the snow,
In Tyler’s Escalade,
Over I-95 we go,
Laughing all the way……HA HA HA

T.J. taps the Bud keg,
While Ing prepares her stand,
Then Art grabs her leg…
HA HA HA

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Chrissy’s back from Aussie Land,
Joe’s still in Germany,
We’ll all be together again
As SENIORS AT CC!

So here’s to the Captain,
And big Bacardi O
For making our nights so wild,

HO
HO
HO
HO
HO!

I wish you good tidings from Taipei and a healthy Christmas season. From your Jolly Saint Nick Host of Holiday Happiness abroad, Michael.