Here Comes the Bride

I have family here in Taiwan. On my mother's side, my Uncle married a girl named Clare who is absolutely wonderful, and I spent the day with her when I first arrived in Taipei. And on my father's side, my cousin married a girl from Taiwan who is equally wonderful. She is now in Taipei to visit family and friends, celebrate Chinese New Year, introduce her new daughter Tia Jade O'Neill to her family in Taiwan and celebrate her brother's wedding.

That means I got to join in for the ride on all these exciting Holiday traditions in Taiwan. How wonderful of her and her family to include me in on everything.

After our delicious lunch together at Ding Tai Fung when she first arrived, I didn't see her until the next weekend at her brother's wedding. Held in Bancqiao, it felt like I arrived for a massive feast to end all other feasts. I was greated again by my cousin and Tia at the door with open arms. She lead me down the bangquet hall where I met her father for the first time- and absolutely wonderful man!

Yuhsin, my cousin, showed me to my seat with two familiar faces- her nieces Zoe and Lily. These two girls have absolutely marvelous English skills on top of being the most gracious of hosts. A little silliness ensued, before the rest of the guests arrived and the show began.

The bride and groom took their seats at the main table while of procession of firework weilding individuals lead the way. This was the introduction to the most intriquing of weddings I have ever attended.

In the United States, weddings are solemn ceremonies, followed by a lavish dinner and dancing. Here, there is no dancing, but rather we are treated to a dinner and a show (apparently it is up to the bride and groom to entertain the guests). During our TWELVE COURSE MEAL, including food I have never before seen in my life, we were bedazzzled with light shows, speaches, videos, slideshows, Japanese drum performances, and a toast to the happy couple.

In the end, the evenin turned out to be truly spectacular. It felt like I was able to attend the wedding of my first cousins that I had unfortunately missed a number of years ago. On the way out, I gave my congratulations to the newly weds, met Yuhsin's mother (who made a flattering remark on my devilishly good looks) and took off for home.

From you wedding crasher of Taipei, Michael.

The Elephant's Head

One thing about Taipei is that it spoils even the stuffiest of hiking enthu- siasts! On one parti- cularly lazy morning, I found myself with a sudden urge to explore the mountains around Taipei. But the late hour would mean I wouldn't be on the trails until well in the older side of the afternoon. Fortunately, you don't actually have to leave the city to go hiking. Four animals mountain starts right at the base of Taipei 101, finding any late sleeper without an excuse as to why they aren't hiking that day.

The trek up Four Animals Mountain begins with a short introduction to the several species protected here. (Ironically enough, the four animals for which the mountains are named- Elephant, Tiger, Lion and Leopard- are not found in the park. They are named as such for the striking resemblance the mountains have for these four animals. Please note these names are also served with a heaping dose of imagination.) A former park ranger, I found this to be interesting and opted for a short read. One particular animal which caught my eye was the Taipei Tree Frog. A seemingly unspectacular creature at first, turns out to be amusingly interesting when one happens to glance at its Latin John Hancock: Rocophorus taipeianus. Sorry- not butt jokes here, I think the name speaks for itself.


Ok, now that we have gotten all that infantile humor out of the way, back to Four Animals Mountain. With my giggles shaken away, I proceeded up the main path to the first outlook in about fifteen minutes: Elephant's Head Mountain. This litterally scales an upward ascent parallel to Taipei 101, giving some outstanding views of the building and the city.


Furthermore, this vantage point allows you to see just how BIG Taipei 101 is compared to the surrounding buildings. Sometimes it's difficult to guage its height and the scale is somewhat vague when you stand right below it. But, from this angle, you can truly appreciate its massive worth.


The trek continued on, somewhat unimpressively, through the mountain tops before dispensing me in the western edge of the Xinyi district. I got home, cleaned up, and joined a few good friends for some delicious, albiet extremely expensive, pizza at NY Pizza Kitchen. From your late start to happy ending (more giggles?) hiker who never left the city except in spirit, Michael.

我不懂 中文

Trans- lation: I don't under- stand Chinese. But that is all about to change my friend. After spending 16 months on this island, I have fortified the strength and determination to master the Chinese language. Thus, on December 3rd, I stepped onto Shida- Taiwan's Normal University- and enrolled in an intensive Chinese Language Program.

In addition to my 8 hours a day work week, totaling 40 hours altogether, I will be attending two hour seminars each every night Monday through Friday, to learn Chinese with my teacher: Janet. I am the only American in this class, along with two Canadians, two Vietnamese, one Japanese, one French, one Korean, and one Mongolian.

I have been in class now for two weeks and I have mastered writing about 80 characters- an accomplishment I am rather proud of. I did well on my first two exams- coming in Flawless the first time with a 100% and a respectable 96% the second time around.

The class is enjoyable, with lot's of incidental language to go along with the text book. I can say important things like, "I have a huge stomach" and "You are my shining star" and "I am not a beautiful woman". Important phrases you need to use on the street, of course. But speaking aside, I have to admit I am immensely enjoying the writing aspect of the course. I aliken it to my time as a park ranger. When I first started out as Mikey the Bear, I didn't know an oak tree from a telephone pole sticking out of the ground. However, as I took my guidebook out into the forest, my identification skills quickly developed and soon did my appreciation of the natural world. Now, here in Taiwan, being able to recognize characters is opening up whole new worlds for me. While I can't read entire signs yet, sometimes I can pick up a few characters and then make an inference as to what the sign is trying to say. Obviously, my appreciation of my surroundings has exploded since he start of my classes.

But perhaps the best part of my day comes at the end of my class at precisely 8.20. This is when I pack up my belongings, grab my bag, and head over to Yong Kang street. Aside from being the BEST street in Taipei, Yongkang street is home to my new favorite restaurant, and aparently I share that trend with a vast majority of people from all over the world. I speak of none other than Ding Tai Fun.

Everynight I have been ordering a basket of Xiao Long Bao, or Steamed Pork Dumplings. The most delicious morsels I have ever put in my mouth, I can't even begin to rave about this restaurant. But you don't need my opinion to know this place has something worth eating. Perhaps the line of 100 people outside waiting is evidence enough. Or maybe that this restaurant was listed as one of the top ten gourmet restaurants in the world by the New York Times. Now I know you don't need any convincing that this is a pretty exclusive and reputable list. Then, you may be even more delighted to know that when it was placed on this list in 1993, it was the only Chinese style cuisine to be featured on the list.

A Xiao Long Bao is a special thing. It is a translucent dumpling filled with tangy soup and fresh pork stuffing. The individually wrapped dumplings are steamed for 8 minutes in the basket before they are served. They arrive, still in the basket they were cooked in, piping hot. Now, before you dig in, it's important you look around first- the dining set is rather simple, but spotless, and the design has no preconceived notions of Feng Shui. You have to wonder why this place was on the top ten list in the first place. Well, you're about to find out.

You pick up a Xiao Long Bao and dip it into some sauce you prepare yourself: three parts vinegar 1 part soy sauce. You then soak some ginger slices in the sauce before placing them on the dumpling. You delicately pick the dumpling up, careful not to let it burst, and place it on your spoon. You take your chopstick and puncture a wound into the side of the Xiao Long Bao to let the soup inside flow free. Then, with one heaping bite (and careful not to burn yourself) you inhale the sauce soaked Xiao Long Bao with the ginger and soup altogether. We remains is an affirmation that these ten little dumpling rightly belong on the New York Times top ten list of the best gourmet restaurants in the world. Here is a perfect example of a place that doesn't need to spruce things up aesthetically because it is their product that makes people come back again and again.

Ding Tai Fung is now my favorite. I go their almost every night and befriend the massive wait staff because they are so friendly and engaging. They always remember my name and ask me how things are going. They treat you like royalty and it is fantastic. And yes, I can eat at least three baskets of Xiao Long Bao!

From your "我 是 大 胃 王" of Taiwan, Michael.

A Tale of Two Hemispheres

Taipei lives in a fishbowl; a valley surr- ounded by marauding mountain-scapes. This poses a difficult orientation dillema: to venture north on Yangmingshan's classic path or explore the dying adventurelands of Taipei's fading south? Each direction proffers unique snipits of Taipei lifestyle and stunning scenery, making, of course, either decision a good one. This entry into Taiwanablog will reveal some hidden and delightful scense from the Rose Compass Class Struggle- a presentation of both up and down.


With Yangminshan towering the northern edge of Taipei, it's easy to ignore the city's southern hemisphere- so let's begin with the low life. On a bright and warm winter morning, I took off for the last MRT stop on the green line in Xindian and paraded around until I found the trail head for Lion's Head mountain. It wasn't long before I was among the green and birds and the KTV. One of the quintessential idiosynchrasies of this country is that, regardless of which trail you embark on, you have a 98% chance (I've done the math) of finding either a KTV restaurant or a makeshift excercise platform complete with balance beams and hula hoops.


Lion's Head gives great views of the lower half of Taipei, from the Xindian Creek around to the Da'an section of Taipei. Lion's Head isn't very difficult to climb- the stairs are not plentiful but the views are. And with a good oscillation of ascending and descending, I think it's safe to put this hike at a beginner's level.


The real charm of Xindian, however, is not on the peaks of Lion's Head mountain. No, in reality, the true treasure is the cultural masterpiece of Pitan. A five minute walk through markets and street vendors, you arrive in no time at all. A few years ago, the historic landmark of this area- it's massive suspension bridge- was targeted for replacement. But due to local community involvement, the bridge was saved and finally repaired. Today, you can still walk over Xindian Creek from the bridge and admire the festivities below.


Already being early evening, I watched young lovers take walks on the river queue and families take out the swan peddle boats for a ride around the river. The scene was passive and enjoyable. A local musician played admirably and fortunately drowned out the sounds of the karaoke coming from the mountains. It was like a carnival that had the magic without the rides.

Speaking of no rides, Pitan used to be famous for another thing- an amusement park. A fatal accident on one of the rides promptly shut the operation down. Now all that remains are a few foundations and dilapidated buildings covered in faded Disney murals. Topped off with a large number of stray dogs roaming the area, the whole place had a somewhat eerie feel to it despite the bright sunny day.


Shaking off the glory days gone by, I proceeded down to Taiwans Airforce cemetary. The arrangement is peaceful and respectful, albiet a bit off with the tombs nothing but a massive outgrowth from the ground covered in bright blue. It was almost like a burial at sea if you ask me.



At the back of the the cemetary lies a massive staircase with an imposing place of wiship at the summit. Introduced by a soaring eagle, it is a fitting place of remeberence to those who fought in the skies.



Thus is Xindian. But for Taipei's ying, there is also it's yang. A Steven to it's Alec, if you will (or maybe that ought to be reversed, I am not sure). But alas, on the other side of this city lies the much more affluent quickly growing northern edge. Cutting between Yangmingshan and Neihu (Taipei's northern district) is a slim ridge of mountains that contains a relatively easy path from Shilin, home of Taipei's famous night Market, to Neihu, where I used to teach English.


The path is actually one of the easiest around Tapei as it is mostly flat along the top of the ridge. A few stairs at the beginning and end provide the only real challenge to this whole trek. But once atop this ridge, you are leisurely afforded some of the finest panoramic views and trek has to offer of Taipei.


Toward the end of the hike, you have to scrawl out onto a rocky ledge with wind blowing swiftly past you and nothing but other hikers joining for the show. The majority of these hikers are of course college students and old folks (old folks outnumber the college students about 3:1) trying to enjoy the same thing you are.


And what are they enjoying? Perhaps one of the most breathtaking images of the city that will, for as long as you live, never once leave you.


From your Dickens imitating, lequaciously escapading explorer of the Taipei woods, Michael.

The Chrysanthemums Commeth

What could be the most exciting thing in the world to do? Visit the Taipei 2008 Chrysan- themum exhibition of course! With one of the worlds largest varieties of chrysanthemums, ranging from the blue ones to the yellow ones, any Chrysanthemum enthusiast would be buzzing like the bees sipping the nectar of the flowers on display. Local junior high school musical entertainment pushed the day's frenzy over the edge for some as the majority of the visitors started swinging their canes and walkers around in a fevered passion.


The exhibition was held on the grounds of the presidential palace and former resident of Chiang Kai Shek. The sun shine and street vendors made all the horticulturalists present giddy and yelp for glee at every breathtaking arrangement.

But I suppose the most entertaining of the show was an enormous face designed by carved shrubberies and strategically placed, wait for it, YES- Chrysanthemums. He reminds me of someone I know, but being caught in the excitement of the day, I couldn't be bothered to remember the particulars of my past.


Well, with the excitement finally subsiding and a whole year before the dangerously hyped Chrysanthemum show of 2009, I pray that this city can get back to a working order and manage to regain whatever dignity was lost during our rampaging excitement during the flower show. From your afloriculturalist of Taiwan, Michael.

Skepticism on the Subway

It was like any other day. But, for me, any other day is not like any of your days.

I had just said goodbye for the last time to a friend heading back to England when I boarded the subway. I waited patiently for the train to finally come, and once it did, I boarded it and took a seat. Sounds fine enough, right?

Well, as I sat down at my seat, this young man and woman, two complete strangers, started smiling at me. The girl politely said, "Hello" and I returned with an equally polite, "hello". Nothing too strange about this occurrence yet.

Well, as soon as I got off the train, the two strangers came up to me and said, "Hello, Michael."

How did they know my name?

My first reaction was to take a closer look and see if I knew who these people were. Perhaps past students that I had just misplaced momentarily. But no, they were bonafide strangers that had taken an interest in me and clearly had some back story gossip. Naturally they aroused my suspicions, so I inquired, "I'm sorry, do I know you two?"

"No. Hi, I am Wilson and this is Jenny." (That's good, I didn't forget their names.)
"Jenny is a fortune teller. We think you're very handsome." (Ok, not so good anymore.)

Well, what was I to believe- that these two mind readers are able to walk onto a subway, approach a complete stranger and telepathically deduce his name? At this point, two stalkers would probably be more plausible, and in reality, less creepy.

We talked for a bit, about how Jenny does palm readings to support her law education at Taiwan National University while Wilson works in films. Not sure what kind of films- just know he in the industry somehow.

Well, it finally came to the point where we were separating ways an I couldn't handle not knowing the source of her psychic powers. I asked them, "Ok, before you leave, how did you know my name? And do you have any information on tomorrow's lottery numbers?"

They told me that they over heard my friend saying "Goodbye Michael" in the Subway at the start of this story. So I guess, as it turns out, my stalker hypothesis was correct after all. I am sure they are somehow in cahoots with the crazy lady that made me dinner that one time.

From your American living in a future time zone, and not the actual future, Michael.

Tis the Season

It's the holiday season again here in Taipei: my second one away from home. A few weeks ago, the turkey was passed around on Thanksgiving along with some delicious gourmet treats brought along by my friends. Joanne and her flatmates whipped up some potatoes (literally) and some homemade stuffing and gravy. Zuhey and her mom brought an extra special set of Tamales steamed to perfection. Tom made some spicy mulled wine that has inspired us all to drink more. And I, the host, carved our glorious bird. (I must admit my carving skills improved dramatically over last year's attempt when I had to carve it with a butter knife!)


Now with the American Holiday Exclusivity at an end, Taipei has been in full swing ringing in the Christmas cheer. How, you might ask, does a country composed primarily of Daoists and Bhuddists celebrate Christmas? Well, commercially of course!


I suppose the scene might not be so awkward to our Floridian residents here in Taipei, but for a Yankee that has spent over 20 Christmases in a foot of snow in Old New England, a Christmas sans the white stuff is a relatively strange experience. But the addition of Christmas trees and lights from around Taipei's glitz and kitsch make the holidays a bit warmer (and I suppose the shorts and tee-shirt weather help out a bit too).

Right across the street from me, at the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, lies an extraordinary display of lights and shine. A tree rises marvelously in the center and the evening lumiere rivals that of Taipei 101. Down in the Plaza rests some shopping centers, food stores and essentials to welcome Santa Clause (including a US$60 Turkey).


Down the road a bit is the Sogo Department center which rivals the best set up at Disney world.


They even have a singing clock which I am sure is based off our childhood favorite "It's a small world."


Then just a short walk from there is the infamous Taipei 101 with its vast array of Christmas Feeling. Enjoy these short snapshots of a "Green Christmas" in Taipei.



But any reasonable soul knows it's not how the central park is decorated or how many presents are under the tree. What matters most is who you spend the season of joy with, as it is your friends that make the times worth what they are. It's amazing to look back over the year and be thankful for what you have and those you have met.


I've been lucky to have known a great many people here in Taipei. But it is always sad to miss those who have moved on to other things- like Kate, Tony, Kirit, Sarah- particularly at the holiday time. As we met for our Christmas Feast at my place, I looked around and saw only one or two faces I have known since first arriving here. But more importantly, I saw many new faces that have become great friends to me. None of us are certainly alone this year! So, as I often raise a glass and toast, "Here's to new friends, to old friends, and to new friends becoming old friends!"


Now- in the spirit of Tradition- I want to give you a holiday poem. This one comes back a few years, to my Junior year of college, and was written by the very lovely and talented Andrea Packard. She claims it goes to the tune of Jingle Bells, but don't try too hard to put the lyrics and melody together because the plan was obviously suspended halfway through! Here's to you AP!

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…

Mike is drinking wine,
While Suki’s turning red,
Kristin’s lookin’ for a dime,
And Ing fell of the bed!

HA HA HA

Tyler‘s footloose dancin‘,
Chris is M.I.A.,
Meanwhile Jon is tackled
By A.P. yelling “haaaaaaaayyyyyy!”

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Gagen’s freek-a-leekin’ to Petey Pablo,
There are red marks on Erin’s neck,
Here comes campus po,
Oh SH**, what the heck?!

“Hark-nasty” Liz Lingo sings,
Glory to playing kings!

Melissa’s all up in that area today,
Stef is cracking up,
Britt’s going to Barcelona - OLAY!

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Sam hails from Milwaukee,
Julia’s “like wooooooooooohh,”
It’s ladies nite for The O.C.
Dontcha’ know?

Here’s to countless beers and cheers
And more crazy times throughout the years!

Plowing through the snow,
In Tyler’s Escalade,
Over I-95 we go,
Laughing all the way……HA HA HA

T.J. taps the Bud keg,
While Ing prepares her stand,
Then Art grabs her leg…
HA HA HA

Oh, Jingle bells, Jingle bells,
Jingle all the way,
Oh what fun it is to go to Conn. College today…..

Chrissy’s back from Aussie Land,
Joe’s still in Germany,
We’ll all be together again
As SENIORS AT CC!

So here’s to the Captain,
And big Bacardi O
For making our nights so wild,

HO
HO
HO
HO
HO!

I wish you good tidings from Taipei and a healthy Christmas season. From your Jolly Saint Nick Host of Holiday Happiness abroad, Michael.