Heart of Darkness

To the north of Kuala Lumpur lies a dark, legendary jungle. It is a land that frightening and exotic creatures call home. A place where the bush is so dense, light can't penetrate through the leaves and only the brave, strong, and smart survive. But provided you don't go too deep into the rain forest, even a half wit like me can enjoy the splendors of Taman Negara, Malaysia's premier jungle terrain.

Arriving in the jungle you take a three hour long jungle river cruise. This is a rustic long boat with the tops right next to the water's edge. The river snakes it's course through lush tropics, revealing now and again, the wildlife she so preciously harbors.


During the course of the boat ride, we came across Monkeys, Otters, Birds and Deer.

After arriving at the docks, I checked into my hotel and made my way to the jungle itself. The interpretive trail is a a medium long trek and requires no demanding physical prerequisites. However, just coming off a climb from Mt. Kinabalu, even the short elevation changes were not welcome in the slightest. But at short clearings, I was offered some magnificent vistas far over the canopy and deep into this mysterious, sacred land.


Then I met Taman Negara's most spotted wildlife- the leech. Any visitor to this rain forest will tell you that any protection you can take against leeches really ought to be taken. As I sat down to catch a breath of water, I wiped the sweat trickling down my neck. Then I came across a big, slimy, squishy thing stuck to my body. I thought it was odd that it wasn't coming off and I had to wonder what it was. Once I pulled it off, there was this big sucker with about a tablespoon worth of my blood in it writhing around in my hand. I through it away and continued on my journey absolutely disgusted. Lesson learned- avoid low lying swamp areas if you want to sit and rest.


Along the hike, however, I came across some interesting specimens. One tree, in particular, caught my eye. The roots of the tree we very large and protruded out of the ground. They resembled massive walls and formed conical curves into the trunk of the tree. It was explained to me that if you hit one of these roots with a stick, the resulting echo is loud and carries on for quite a while. Aboriginal families on the hunt use these trees to communicate with one another to announce where they are.


Another fascinating flora was the giant bamboo. Here I am standing below it to give it scale.


After my hike, I returned back to my cabin. I showered, ate dinner and then joined up with a tour to go on a night safari. We all piled onto the back of this pick up truck (a bit primitive) and we were driven into a Palm Oil Tree Plantation. The clear night sky, the warm air rushing past me, the ominously illuminated palm trees that surrounded the secluded dirt road made me relaxed and at ease. But I was also on the seat of my pants ready to catch a glimpse of the possibly game we might see.


The safari ended with some pretty reasonable sighting. We saw leopard cats, barn owls, and pythons that, had we been anywhere outside of the truck, would have swallowed us whole. As an added bonus, I got to eat some of the palm tree nuts to taste the oil. It was very high in fiber and that is all I have to say about that.

The following day began with my raison d'etre for coming to this park: the canopy walk. A canopy walk is a massively long, massively high up suspension bridge large enough for one person to cross at a time that hangs from the tree tops giving it's viewers pristine looks on the tops of trees. The canopy walk is 400 meters long and rises 40 meters about the ground at its highest point. It's a thrilling alternative to hiking through, or should I say on top of, the jungle.


After the canopy walk, I had one of the most memorable encounters in all my time in Asia. I left the main touristy area of the jungle and took a long boat with a local guide. The guide pulled the boat up to the river bank and we made our way to the top of a small hill. Here, there lived a local aboriginal village that welcomed foreigners to view their way of life. This was about as primitive as one could get- they wore traditional clothing, lived in Tiki Huts with no electricity or running water, and hunted and gathered all their food. The people were nomadic and their village is designed to be dismantled at the drop of a hat and moved elsewhere along the river.


Upon entering the village, we were met by two young boys (the remainder of the males were off hunting). The two boys demonstrated how to make a fire with only wood and bamboo (that's right, even more primitive than flint and tinder). We were informed that the boys were not considered men until they were able to start a fire. After a few failed attempts, the two lads got it going.


Afterwards, we got blow dart lessons! The blow dart guns were made out of long bamboo reeds and were probably twice the size of me. I held out the gun, aimed it at my target, and shot my dart straight and true. It was stunning how fast the darts whizzed off and how accurate their trajectory in fact was!


After blow dart lessons, we got to fraternize with the locals a bit before heading off. Returning back, I took a bus ride home to the train station and hopped on an overnight express back to Kuala Lumpur.


From The Horror! The Horror!, Michael.

Singapore Sling

Known for being one of the cleanest cities in Asia, Singapore is a country that probably takes itself a little bit too seriously. But you can't fault them for that- as a former British colony they take after mom and pop. And after bushwhacking it for two days out in the middle of Borneo, it was nice to come back to Culture for a little bit.

I've always argued that when you've been to one city in Asia, you've been to them all. But in reality, each city has some quirks that identify it as a unique and incomparable concrete jungle. Singapore had that great ring to it that really set it apart as a hip, sophisticated place in Southeast Asia. For example, our hotel room had a great view of this half naked man on the hotel roof across the way from us.

One thing that I enjoy immensely in the city is the river life. To mozy along the Seine of Paris or cross the bridges of the Thames, or switch back between Buda and Pest along the Danube of Hungary, that is the true joy of a city. Taipei lacks this central congregation of a river life. Yes, there is a river that runs through the heart of it, but it is flanked by muddy shores and tall grass. Some excellent bike paths but essentially devoid of the European bistros that light up the evening air.


Singapore has a stellar river life. The river goes right into the financial heart of the city with dazzling outdoor cafes spotted alongside. The restaurants have hawkers trying to real you in to try their middle eastern cuisine or fresh seafood. My friend Brian and I decided on a nice little Sri Lankan restaurant set on the roof of a building. To one side was the river, to the other lit monuments set in the distance, and to the final side were Singapore's enormous skyscrapers that seemed close enough to reach out and grab. I ordered a tender skewered chicken that must had been marinating for weeks before they served it to me because it was the first time a piece of meat ever actually, and pardon the cliche, melted in my mouth.

After dinner, Brian and I went to this 1920's retro wine bar. Being a Tuesday night, it was dead and we had the place to ourselves. The live band was playing and we had a 40 foot tall wine rack all to ourselves. "40 feet!" I can hear you exclaim. "But Michael, what if you wanted a wine from the top?" I am so glad you asked that. A young bar maid would dress up as an angel and get hooked into a harness and pulley system. The harness would then whisk her away as if she was floating like a real angel to bring our wine back from the heavens. It was certainly an angelic moment.


The following day, after nursing our hangovers a bit (and still getting over our sore legs from climbing) we made our way down to Singapore's Chinatown. This area was a very important location to Brian and we spent the better part of the morning checking out the old streets. Today, the majority of the shops are pasteled over and sell tacky Chinese souvenirs. This didn't interest us much as we had all this stuff back in Taiwan.


The interesting part of Singapore's Chinatown was the Cultural Center which portrayed the daily life of the Chinese immigrant. It talked about why people left mainland China for a new life in Singapore, to the hardships endured by the newly arrived Chinese. The museum finished off with a restructured 19th century style home and shop that would be typical for working class family in Singapore. The conditions were like nothing I had ever seen.


I left Brian at this point and wandered over to Little India. This little quarter of Singapore contrasts starkly against the rest of the clean, ordered city. It was busy, noisy, messy, lively, exciting, thrilling, and dangerous all rolled into one.


I stopped and got an incredible lunch filled with delightful curries, nans, and creamed cheeses that were simply to die for. I've never been to India myself, but this is precisely how I imagine it.


After Little India, I got back to the hotel and met up with Brian. I just got in from the largest electronics market in Asia. I collected my things and bid farewell to him. He decided to stay an extra day while I chose to catch an overnight train up to the rain forest in Taman Negara. I caught a cab, went through customs caught a dinner for the ride, and fell asleep as Singapore rushed passed me and the Malaysian Peninsula arrived.

From your slingy, angel drinking, Sri Lankan Chicken or the city where you could eat off the streets, Michael.

Mt. Kinabalu- On Top of Borneo

Imagine this: you wake up at 1am in the morning to climb the last stretch of the tallest mountain in Southeast Asia. The sun rises revealing one of the oldest jungles in the world much like a curtain giving way to the first act of a play. The view rivals that of astronauts looking on from space. You're 13,435 feet in the air sitting on the 20th tallest mountain in the world in terms of prominence. You have to ask yourself- how did you get up here? Well, that story starts about four months prior to this one. So please indulge me as I impress upon you some less than interesting back story to set the mood.

Since coming to Asia, I have developed an unhealthy obsession with life threatening pursuits. One extreme component to that is hiking mountains over 4,000 meters tall. My first attempt was on Jade Mountain in central Taiwan. Our climb was dangerously interrupted when we found ourselves in a bit of a snow squall at the top and had to turn back. Inclement weather aside, I knew mountaineering would be a hobby of mine while residing in Asia.


A quick search showed that the tallest mountain in South East Asia is Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, Malaysia. At this height, it was a prize that had to be bagged. I sent out a message to my friends and told them that in four months time I was to fly out to Malaysia to tackle this beast and wanted to find out who would join me. Two friends heard the call and signed up along side. Two of us hit the gym every day preparing for the arduous climb that laid ahead.

We arrived in Kota Kinabalu, the undisputed capital of Borneo that boast nothing more than an interesting seaside market with waterside restaurants and lazy street strolls. The city, though small and relatively lifeless, reminded me of a Manila that was kept up slightly better. When a nasty storm rolled in, we took refuge in a small "rain forest" cafe for some light lunch. When the rain passed, the cool air and swirling cloud patterns made for a comfortable stroll along the beach front, down to through the market and finally a pleasant rest along the waterfront at a seaside bar. The night retired early as we had a big day ahead of us.


At 6am, we were up and getting ready. Our ride picked us up from our stay in Kota Kinabalu for a two hour long ride through winding mountain roads in the Kinabalu national park. The road climbed into clouds, into sun, into the jungle until the behemoth appeared. Soaring high above anything else around it, Mt. Kinabalu's unmistakable peak jutted out from the earth like an immovable giant devoted to his final resting spot. We braked at a small market for a breakfast of cakes and noodles while we mentally prepared ourselves for the climb ahead.


About 30 minutes later, we arrived at the park entrance to Mt. Kinabalu and registered like good responsible hikers. Starting at about 1,500 meters high, we still had over 2 vertical kilometers of hiking ahead of us so it came at bit of a surprise when our friend who hadn't been working out shot out like a bullet ahead of us. But for every action there is a reaction and about 10 minutes into the climb, he hit a wall (for his part, he did much better going down than me)!


The climb up was long and surprisingly steep. In comparison to Jade Mountain in Taiwan, which has a nice switchback trail system, Mt. Kinabalu was a straight up StairMaster buster of a trail with boulders to climb galore.

The trail was riddled with interesting flora and fauna, some unique only to Mt. Kinabalu. As one of the most biologically diversified ecosystems in the world, I was in a naturalist's playpen with many vibrant aviary species, flora and fauna, and my favorite, lichen (I know, I am so interesting). But the most interesting plant species we came across had to be the pitcher plant which acts quite like a Venus fly trap in that it catches it's prey in it's jaws and then releases an acidic acid to digest the insect within.


Around three PM on the first day, we reached base camp which is called Laban Rata. Surprisingly, this was an amazing accommodation with working bathrooms and showers, a three stay quality lodge with buffet dining and a magnificent lodge overlooking the land below. It reminded me of being in an old time lodge in a New England Ski resort- it was absolutely lovely. After dinner, the three of us sat on the porch viewing the sunset where we met a very good, new friend. His name was Matias from Argentina and he was out travelling in Asia on his own. We were above the clouds at this point, so we were looking out over a see of white, making out shapes in the cloud from the top looking down. There were dogs, star ship cruisers, and other delightful shapes in the stratosphere that night. It was again an early night because of the dreadfully tiring climb up to the top and because were were starting our climb the next day at 1am in the morning.


It's amazing how quickly 1am comes when you're climbing a mountain. But in the excitement of ascending to the top of the world, you aren't too groggy at that time. We woke up, had some porridge and grains to give us energy for a rather high climb ahead of us. As we donned our warmest winter clothes (preparing for near freezing temperatures so close to the equator), strapped our torches to our heads, we were on our way.

The first things you notice at this high in the middle of the jungle are the stars. Coming from a densely populated city in the Taiwan, you aren't privilege to see the stars often, so being able to watch Orion's belt circling above you brings you back to a time of childhood, when you grew up on the small suburban street far away from the bustle of the city and the stars were as common a neighbor as the family living next door.


The hike soon turned from lush tropical to what could only be described as the surface of the moon. It was a barren rock landscape that seemed to run on forever. The air was thin, the night was dark and the temperatures were cold- needless to say it was not an simple stroll. At one point, I will admit that I the thin air took it's toll. One more step felt like it was going to push me down the mountainside. I stopped, breathed slowly and drank some water. After about five minutes I regained my composure and pressed on up the mountain.


Rejoining my friends, we made the final scramble up the last few steps only to find that there was only one other person at the top of the world with us- Matias!


Over the far end of the horizon, the faintest tint of light barely separated the edge of the earth from the sky. The sun was still about an hour away from making an appearance, leaving the found of us on the tip top of the summit to take in the dazzling sky show and the sense of accomplishment that we climbed Southeast Asia's highest mountain.


Before long, the quiet light slowly intensified, like God was gently turning on the dimmer light over Borneo. Jagged clouds formed in the distance and smaller peaks were taking form along the ground. As the dark images eschewed themselves, our sense of height really made itself clear- we were looking down from space.


As we began our descent, the dark barren wasteland of the climb up revealed itself to be a rocky playground, a moonscape of indescribable formations that seemed out of this world. It was sharp and ragged at its finer details, but also flowing and smooth in a grander sense. The mountain revealed herself to be striking and staunch, everything we had hoped.


Before climbing this behemoth, we had a decision to make on how we wanted to get down. I suggested something called the Via Feratta, or Iron Road, to get down and my friends immediately jumped at the opportunity with me. The Via Feratta is a essentially an obstacle course that goes down a cliff side starting at 3,800 meters high (which, for those of you keeping score at home, officially makes it the worlds tallest Via Ferrata).


Imagine this, you're in a harness, hooked onto some wires (barely) and shimmying your way down a vertical cliff side above a tens of thousands foot free fall. The adrenaline is pumping as one wrong move would give you the fright of a lifetime. The obstacle course took us along ridges, over the world's highest suspension bridge (that's right, if you want to see the world's highest, you have a bit of a climb ahead of you), down straight edges, through jungles, over rocks, and everywhere in between. All the while, there is a massive free fall between you and the ground 3 vertical kilometers below you. At least you would have plenty of time during the fall to review your improper footing and determine just where you went wrong.


At the conclusion of the Via Ferrata, we regrouped for lunch at the "resort" and began our long trek down the mountain side to civilization. For those that think going down is easier than going up- you are dead wrong. I have never been in so much pain in my entire life as I was going down that mountain side- there must have been at least ten differently succinct pains running through my body. But persevere I did and in five short hours I made it back. We received our certificates of completion, slept for the two hour car ride back to Kota Kinabalu, got some delicious dinner at a local canteen and finished it off with a foot massage at a local shop to heal our aching feet/calves/thighs.


From your acrobatic swinger high above the clouds in the land of Borneo- Michael.

A Photoessay of Motorcycle Trips

I would like to share with you some photography taken on some recent motorcycle trips taken throughout my last few months in Taiwan. And yes, photo essay is just another term for "I'm too lazy to write anything". Enjoy!

A View from the Top of Pingxi

Fish Market near Toucheng

Jessica and Katelin Practice Kungfu near Kwan Yin Dripping Water Cave

Jessica and Katelin break for Lunch at the Graffiti Wall

Katelin Looking Out over the Pacific Ocean from Jinshan

A Wedding at the Golden Waterfall

Steve Contemplates his Life's Direction While Looking Really Cool

Steve Looking out Over Baishawan Beach

A Sea of Clouds Settles over Northern Taipei

The Northern Cross Island Highway

Taiwan is crossed by three main arteries from East to West. On my major bike ride around the island, I did the entire Southern Cross Island Highway and half of the Central Cross Island Highway, but I did not even touch the Northern Cross Island Highway. I had been planning to do the Northern with my friend Steve on a weekend trip only to find out he already did it... in a day! Not to be outdone by my good friend/ arch nemesis, I decided I would have to take off for the Northern as well.

I woke up early on a Saturday morning and put all my essentials into one basket. I got my atlas of Taiwan, water, locks, rain jacket, gloves, helmet, snacks and a hunger for the open road. I went downstairs to the local Taiwanese breakfast joint near my house and ordered my Zwa Bing and hot tea, per usual before a bike trip. I chatted briefly with the shop keep about what I was intending on doing that day, and like all Taiwanese, she thought I was crazy. I'm used to that by now.

Well, the sun was coming out and I put on my gear, revved up my bike and headed south toward Xindian. I followed route 110 down to Sanxia, which is a quaint and delightful little drive if I have ever seen one! After reaching Sanxia, it was a quick turn over to route 3 and finally route 7 and the start of the Northern Cross Island Highway.

Immediately starting out, there is an offramp that goes into a nature park. It seems to follow the river a bit and had I more time, I would probably explore that pathway. But continue on the road I did and my views weren't spoiled by that missed turnoff. The river waves and the road turns around bends and cliff sides, climbing through small towns before entering the mountains completely.

The Northern Cross Island highway begins in Dasi, not far from Taoyuan really and a great day trip for those interested. Home to some quaint old streets and traditional Taiwanese snacks, this was a delightful starting point to my journey into the tip of the central cordillera. Dasi is also quite close to Chiang Kai Shek's burial place, and momument sprawling with visitors and tourists alike. Going past this little momento of presidents gone by, the traffic let up tremendously leaving me on a small, one lane road in Taiwan. Hardly a highway by any stretch of the imagination.

At this point, you are squarely in the mountain range of central Taiwan, and there is no turning back. Here and there, the trip is paused for a roadside picture or a little hut with food. My favorite picture spot was at this enormous purple bridge, just next to an antique, pedestrian red suspension bridge. Shortly after, I too found a nice little hut on the side of the road worthy of stopping for a baozi and fried rice.


The afternoon saw no rain and plenty of sunshine. The air was dry and cool, a nice change for Taiwan indeed! The road went high and low, left and right, upside down and inside out before finally stretching out into Ilan. At this point I was basically home free as I have driven to Ilan on many occasion before. After take a break to rest my sore butt, I climbed back on and drove back into the rolling mountains and tea plantations of Pingling.


A full, 6-8 hour bike ride at least (with minimal stopping) but one that should not be passed up by any motorcyclist living in the Taipei area. A simple, elegant and entertaining ride with little technical difficulties. From your man in the clouds, biker of the North, Michael.

Tuesdays On the House

While taking Chinese lessons two hours every day Monday through Friday, I found spending time with friends during the week a rare occurrence. Maybe a late evening here or there, or the occasional typhoon day allotted some moments to meet up. But it wasn't until I finally stopped studying full time that I found a more balanced schedule to study, work, exercise, and be with friends.

One special day of the week for me is Tuesday night, when two friends of mine, Jessica and Katelin, join me at my apartment to watch the most recent episode of House, MD. I am not much of a TV watcher and this is in fact the only show I watch, so it's nice to share this common interest with two good friends.


Well, the midseason pause came up and without a new show to occupy our interests each week, we decided that we should go out and try a different restaurant instead. Our culinary explorations took us to new and exciting eateries throughout town. We have frequented the posh and ultra hip People Restaurant and Lounge where you need to stick your hand in a hole to open the door. We have had the famous noodles of a Tainan noodle maker. We have dined in some traditional "little eats" restaurants around town, including the one near my apartment, Din Tai Fung, and most recently a Dim Sum restaurant close to the colorful combat zone (for Dr. Jessica). And last Tuesday night we stayed in and failed miserably at trying to make our own dumplings from scratch!


This Tuesday will mark the final dining excursion of this intrepid trio as Jessica will be heading for colder climates back in NYC. We intend to embark on a small bike ride to the tea plantations just south of the city in Maokong. With Tea Fried Rice, the best tofu you could ever hope for and views of downtown Taipei that are unmatched, it will be a fitting sendoff and proper finale to our Tuesday night gatherings.

From your Tuesday night fatso, Michael.