A Man and his Motorcycle Part 5 (The Finale!)

The journey was in it's final stretches as I woke early in sleepy Taidong for the second time. Again, a quick shower, pre-packed the night before, and a quick helping of zhwabing and red tea, and I was off like before. Last time going down the East Coast, I took the coastal road with scenic cliffsides and ocean vistas. For my return, I decided to take an alternate route, through the valley between the central cordillera and the oceanside cliffs. And to be quite boring, this route was very boring minus a few notable exceptions.

The first was Taiwans very own stone hendge located suspiciously close to the the Tropic of Cancer. Built over 3,000 years ago, the two Saoba monoliths are collectively almost 23 tons in weight, reaching a maximum height of 575 cm, and span out 600 meters long and 400 meters wide. Today, these massive structures remain a great mystery as to who put them there and for what purpose.

There are two legends surrounding the origins of these monoliths, both of which bend truth with magic in mythical ways. The first, according to the displays at the site, indicate that the Amis people first settled the area. One day, a pouring rain came into the area, and so everyone picked up a wooden board to protect themselves. This is how the monoliths became known as the Saoba, or wooden board, Monoliths. I guess no one realized that this story doesn’t actually account for how the stones got there, nor does it make for a very good legends. “Gather round children, and I shall tell you the exciting tale of how our ancestors… stayed dry!”


The second rumor is much more interesting and much more devious. As the Saoba people made their homes, they would have to circle their structures and sing the ancestral prayers. If the lyrics were sung incorrectly, the perpetrator would be blown away by the wind and all would turn to stone. The enormous remaining monoliths are proof enough for me that it has happened at least once! I think that is why karaoke is so popular in Taiwan, because the words are written at the bottom of the screen to prevent such a catastrophe!

I continued back up the route with a short stop off at the famed hot springs in the valley. It was a great way to soak up before getting back on course. The scenery didn’t change much, the route just passed through boring after boring town, and I realized that I had made a mistake in going up this humdrum valley. Humdrum, that was, until I reached the Taiwan Sugar Factory!!! Sadly, though, it was not as much fun as you would expect. If I had a sugar factory, I would make secret passageways and cool slides and a giant sugar bowl where you can lick you arm and dip it in and then suckle on the sweet sweet goodness. This place was just a factory. It was neither fun nor open to the public.


Around 5 o’clock, I rolled into Hualien. I had some more of the delicious dumpling soup and fried pork steak soup noodles before I went to bed.

As I woke up, I hopped onto my motorcycle only to notice that the back tire was flat. Perfect, 7am on Sunday and no mechanics were opened. I asked my hotel front desk if they could help me, but they were no use. I then walked up to a small breakfast joint, ordered my usual, and then explained my predicament to them. They said they knew of one that was opened on Sunday but it wouldn’t be open for another hour or so. I thanked them very much and they instructed me to push my bike up to the restaurant from my hotel and return later.

This push was a momentus push for me. As I was rolling my bike along, I watched my mileage roll over the 1,000 mile mark. What serendipity, that of all places for me to reach 1,000 miles would be in Hualien, while rolling it down the street with a flat tire. I stopped push, applauded my accomplishment there in the street with a raucous clap, and then carried on.


The mechanic pulled out a long nail from my tire and replaced it with a new one. She was in perfect working condition and then I pressed on along the stunning coastal route between Hualien and Ilan.


Past Ilan, I retraced my steps along route 9 over Pingling, into Xindian, and finally back at Taipei by about 3 o’clock. It gave me enough time to meet up with Amber’s going away party as we said good bye to her for the next year where she will be in the United States studying to get her MBA.

From the man with no sugar high, just high on motorcycle fumes, Michael.

A Man and His Motorcycle Part 4

There are three great cross island highways in Taiwan- the Northern, the Central, and the Southern. The Northern has yet to be attempted. I completed the second half of the central on my second day of the trip ending in Taroko National Park, and the Southern was about to be checked off my list.

With an early rise in Tainan, I hopped on my motorcycle and breezed toward the Southern Cross Island Highway. I was leaving some rainy weather behind me in Taipei, so I was a bit apprehensive about what was ahead of my, on a trip that would take me from sea level to almost 3,000 meters, back down to sea level. Weather did not appear to be on my side initially.

However, it wasn't long before I found myself admiring some of Taiwan's majestic hidden treasures. The first was this enormous temple no more than an hour into the journey.


The second was this lovely reservoir, ideal for a short stop to catch a picture.


After this, the clouds remained gray, the roads turned very windy, and the altitude began to climb. I was afforded a few stylistic, breathtaking shots before my path before my disappeared into the clouds.


It was a good two hour drive at this point through mist and fog. I had to drive slowly and carefully as the unprotected side of the road was a fall thousands of feet below and certain death at the end. The road narrowed, climbed, and the visibility declined until at times I had to follow the yellow line on the road.


Just as I had given up all hope, I arrived at Yakou tunnel, and the Southern Cross Island highways highest point at 8,960 feet. The sign read that this tunnel, big enough for only one car to fit through at a time, was sixty meters long, unlit, and had a 90 degree bend in the middle. An engineering flaw if I have ever heard of one. Nevertheless, I drove through, and recorded it in three parts below, and when I emerged from the other side, I was treated to the most amazing thing I have seen in Taiwan. (The film was actually four parts, but part three was just a blank screen in the middle of the tunnel, so I cut it from the blog).

And some photos of the spectacular view on the other side, the Southern Cross Island Highway's highest point.

It floored me that three hours up through this mountain ranged was spent entirely in the clouds could be ended so abruptly. The mountain I drove through served as a dam for the clouds- it held them back keeping the beauty and the sun squarely ahead of me. At times a strong wind would come and force some of the clouds to spill out of its natural cauldron, falling wistfully down the edge, over me, and disappearing into vapor.

I followed the trail ahead of me. The road was all down hill from this point on, so I turned off my motor and glided silently down the mountain. With the wind rushing and the sun shining, I was a happy man.

I followed the route until I arrived in a small town called Lidao. Lidao is an aboriginal village with some great Bunnan cuisine and some surprisingly famous kimchee. A small remote place, I had no idea that this little village would be the center of a unique coincidence about three hours later.


It wasn't long after this short stop that I arrived at the exit to the Southern Cross-Island highway. I arrived at a junction of sorts, and had to make a decision- should I drive about an hour South and spend the night again in Taidong, therefore having to retrace the route again tomorrow, or should I press North and hope to find a place to stay. The connundrum was answered not by the setting sun, but the reminder that I wanted to have some really tasty dumplings, so I set out for Taidong and my scrumptious dumpling house.

When I arrived in Taidong, I was checked into a very reasonably priced hotel and was shown to my room. When we walked in, my attendant turned on the television to show me I had cable, and he turned it to the Travel and Living channel. In doing so, a travel show was on called Fun Taiwan! and, of all places for the host to be at the moment he turned the TV on was in Lidao, where I was at no more than about three hours earlier.

With that coincidence in mind, I showered and went out to pick up my golden delicious dumplings down the road.

From your West to East coaster in less than a day, Michael.

A Man and His Motorcycle Part 3

The next two days of my journey placed less of an emphasis on my riding and more of an emphasis on my sightseeing. Again, an early rise in Taidong was met with a sunny, bright day. I sat down for a breakfast at a little Taiwanese diner just outside of Taidong and took out my map. This next stretch looked like it was going to be a bit of a tricky ride.

My highway, according to my map, at one point stopped and crossed over the Western side of the island, leaving me to figure out how to get to the bottom of the island without having to drive to Tainan. I did notice that they were in the process of building a road completing the stretch of highway that was apparently missing, so I thought I would conduct a few research experiments on some back roads. My first attempt was down this one lane road along the seaside through tiki like huts, or shacks, which I was not aware actually existed in Taiwan. Or I could be imagining I saw them as I am recounting this trip at least four months after I took it. Never the less, it still had a very tropical island feel to it. Particularly when the paved road...


...gave way to a dirt road...


...and then the dirt road gave way to no road at all.


I pressed on until the path was completely washed out by a raging river, traversable only by an all terrain vehicle. Racing stripes on my 125cc motorcycle does not a Jeep make.

I had but no choice to continue on along the major highway, branching off down side roads in search of the Taiwan's equivalent to the North West Passage, the South East Highway!

At one pictureque moment, I pulled over to take some photos of the luscious greenery unfolding below me. As I sat there, I met some delightful cyclists that were biking around Taiwan. After the customary photo shoot, I asked them if there was a highway along the ocean that I could take. A few broken English and Chinese phrases later, I was able to catch a phrase here or there indicating that there was indeed a road. But I also caught some mention of a military base nearby as well, so naturally, my caution was piqued as I proceeded along my way.


Naturally, I found the road the bikers mentioned and sure enough, the entrance was guarded byt the military. Not wanting to be cause of international drama, that and a helicopter started circling my, I turned my bike around and booked it out of the full metal jacket. Once the helicopter started its retreat, no match for me, I snapped a shot of it for my records.


Alas, with the military blocking my only access to the East Coast, I had to go through some winding backroads across the island to my next destination, Kenting, with an approach from the Western side. I got into this little resort town, known for it's sandy beaches, fine weather, and Mexican Restaurants, took a shower and got what I consider to be the best ribs and bbq chicken on the Island only at Smokey Joes. I then spent the afternoon lounging around on the beach, watching the tide, swimming, drinking, and relaxing to the tunes on my ipod.


Extra points to anyone who recognizes this particularly pretty photograph...


Evening was met with a trip around the night market, some tasty Thai food, and a show. You have to love Taiwan and their shows, particularly in Kenting. Essentially, they have these shows that are advertised for the seedier crowd, but attract the fun loving teenage crowd. Essentially, you sit in a restaurant, and for about fifteen minutes, you are entertained by the stylings of "A Sexy Girl" a "Hot Guy" and a "Lady Boy". Maybe the sexy girl will come up to you and give you a quick lap dance or the hot guy will take your shirt and through it onto one of the rafters for you to climb after, or perhaps the lady boy will find the manliest guy in the room, take him up on stage, and embarress the hell out of him. It's important you realize this is NOT a seedy show at all, but a funny, carabaret or miniature burlesque. Leave it to Taiwan to take the only real x-rated content in the world and make in Disney friendly!


After dinner and show, I hit the hay for another early start. I was not particularly looking forward to this drive. When driving around Taiwan, it is sage advice to avoid the Western side. It is basically all city driving with stoplights and trucks and construction. It is not an enjoyable way to go. However, it did get me to Kiaoshung where a few items of note were encountered.

First, I reached 1,000 Kilomoters in this city.


This is what I saw at this historic landmark of my trip.


I know you feel a little disappointing, but don't worry, my 1,000 mile marker was satisfyingly interesting. You'll know what I mean when I get to it. While Kiaoshung may not have had a great introduction, it was nevertheless a really great city. I found it to be clean, vibrant and set up for tourism. It didn't hurt, either, that the city was also currently hosting the World Games. After going to the Olympics in Turino in 2006 and then missing them in Beijing in 2008, I figured this was an appropriate subsitute.


I wasn't sure what it was that I wanted to see, or where to go to see them, so I stopped in a local internet cafe and hopped online to see what events were taking place. Just my luck that water ski jumping was starting in about two hours on the lotus pond. I am never one to pass up an opportunity to see people crash into the water at high speeds, so I hopped on my bike and proceeded up to the Lotus Pond.


This pond, minus the event, was absolutely beautiful. First, I was surprised by there size of it. It was quite large for a Taiwanese city I thought, certainly we have nothing like it in Taipei! Second, there were temples and sculptures and floating gardens along the water in between shaded walking paths. It was just marvelous.


After a quick tour of these, I made my way over to the pavilion, bought my ticket, and sat down in the viewing booth for the jumps. The first couple of jumps were all very boring- very successful. I decided that I was also hungry and thought I could skip out on the jumps for a little bit. I followed the path around the games and then I came across this little table with light refreshments set out. I didn't see anybody collecting money, and after I saw a few people take them for free, I followed suit. I nice, I thought, for the Taiwanese to be handing out free refreshments. I continued along my walk only to come across a gated entrance. I passed two young Taiwanese lads, said hello and continued on my way. When I returned, I saw a sign on that gate indicating that I was in the Athlete's lounge and just mooched off their tables. Whoops, well, no one stopped me when I went in there on account of my fabulous athletic form I am sure.


I then got back to the grandstand and stayed put until I saw a crash. And boy did I see crashes. Enjoy.

At the end of the event, I packed everything up, got back on my high horse, and made way for Tainan, just a little further up the road. I got into town just as the sun was setting. I settled in for the night after a nice breakfast on this rooftop restaurant next to a lazy winding river. I had to get some early sleep because the next day was the start of my most ambitious drive to date, the South Cross Island Highway.

So until then, from your Taiwan Invading, family strip show attending, laugh at the athletes crashing into the water kind of guy, Michael.

A Man and His Motorcycle Part 2

This leg of the journey was why I wanted to do this trip. A drive along the East Coast of Taiwan is considered to be one of the most prized rides of the whole island, commencing in Hualien (although, in reality, could start in Ilan) and finishing in Taidong. Contrasting drastically with the mountain road I was on the day before, this coastal road was mostly wide, straight and easy going. Surely, a day was all that was needed to get from top to bottom.


Waking up early in Hualien, I was relieved to see blue skies out over the ocean and to the south of me along my route. I packed up, hopped on board my bike, and took off. The sun was shining, the cool air was blowing in off the ocean and my happiness clocked in at maximum levels. The road, while winding at times, remained largely clean, sparsely trafficked, and beckoning. Because I had left early in the morning, there was a noticeable absence of tour buses, trucks and other cars on the path. I was alone with my thoughts, my bike, and my island. I was a man with his motorcycle.


It wasn't too far from my point of departure when I got my first glimpse of the beauties that stretched out before me. I had come around a sharp turn and decided to pull off into an over look. Below me was Nioushan (Cow Mountain) beach and a small cove of intricate delight. I puttered about before casting of for my next destination: Shihtiping. Less impressive than the curious Yeliou of the northern coast, this little outcrop provides unique glimpses of volcanic rocks eroded by wind, time and sea. After a brief viewing of the 1 kilometer outcropping, it was a straight shot to the tropics.


Taiwan, while considered to be a sub-tropic island, hosts many fascinating micro climates. Starting a day in Taipei, it takes a simple 45 minute train ride to leave the dark and gloom behind and find oneself in the sunnier times of Taichong. Crossing the tropic of Cancer is usually a sign of permanent fine weather ahead. Taiwan marks the Tropic of Cancer with an enormous white monolith, separating subtropics from tropics, or as I like to say, sunshine from better sunshine. But how many times can you say you have driven a motorcycle over a major lattitude? 10 times at least in my case. There is a great thrill to ride a bike back and forth over a major geographical (albeit imaginary) demarcation, so I had no qualms about riding my bike back and forth a few times for prolonged enjoyment!


Now continuing my trip, and being permanently in the tropics, I decided it was time to check out the caves of Basiandong. Pulling over just south of the Tropic of Cancer, I stormed up some stairs in the blazing heat to see the Caves of the Eight Immortals. The formation of these caves are quite interesting. Standing at over 150 meters above sea level, they were carved out by the ocean's tides. Tectonic uplift has now pushed them high above anymore hydro-related bashing. What's more stunning is the age of these caves. While I do not know when they were formed, archeological evidence has found prehistoric, stone-age artefacts (such as tools) dating back 30,000 years. This suggests the caves once harbored Taiwan's earliest inhabitants well after the caves rose from the frothy seas.


Coming out of the caves is a curious little turn off you won't find in the guide books. Driving along, I saw a sign for "Water Running Up" and couldn't shake the idea that is must be some type of illusion. So I pulled into the little park, plopped my bike over in the corner, and made my way to the small stream where the water was supposedly running up. It was a pretty dam good illusion. Enough that I ended up sitting there for the better part of an hour following the stream UP the hill around the corner, inspecting each little turn bump or anomoly until the water disappeared into the rocks. I was a regular Sherlock Holmes trying to determine why the law of physics did not apply to this particular locale. It was then I got the shuttering thought that perhaps I might indeed fall into a antigravity wormhole and with nothing to hold onto, hurdle out into the endless depths of space. Not particularly enjoying this thought experiment, I put my detective skills to rest, jumped back on my bike and made due for a very lovely place called Sansiantai.


With no connection (that I know of) to Basiandong, Sansiantai, or Three Immortals Platform, is a collection of three unique little islets of rocks with a pesky and obnoxious little bridge connecting them to the mainland. With eight absurd arches leading the way, one could spend some time on truly lovely platforms admiring Taiwan's rocky coastline. However, if it weren't for the exhausting 8 arches on the bridge, perhaps you wouldn't be so exhausted once you arrived at the end and not want to continue on. A little exploration was conducted and deserved, nonetheless, for such an invested arrival. But it wasn't long before I returned back to the start of the walk and sat down for some fried rice and a mango smoothie. Interestingly, it was I who became more of the sight seeing attraction than the three immortals because as I went up to get my bike, a young couple with a baby approached me. They threw the baby into my arms and immediately started to take my picture with it. No warning, no permission. It did cross my mind that this young couple, too distraught with the overwhelming responsibility of parenting, sought a better life for their young daughter with a young American biking around Taiwan. Fortunately, they did not leave me with their young (who was screaming and tearing as it was being held by this complete stranger) and took her back permitting me to go along my way.


My last stop before arriving in Taidong, my destination, was a place called Siaoyeliou, or a smaller version of the impressive Yeliou along the North coast already commented on in this blog. I found this place neither impressive nor memorable and of no comparison to it's big brother up north. Still worth a trip, though, if you're in town.


It was around 5pm when I rolled into Taidong, a quiet lazy city on the southeast part of Taiwan. The streets had no, or few, traffic lights and they were barely littered with cars. Buildings never towered higher than six stories and the citizens were tanned, broken locals of the beetlenut chewing variety. Although Taidong lacks the frenticity and class of Taipei, it contained a unique charm and a glimpse of traditional Taiwan life.


It also had the winner for the best Xiaolongbao on my trip, with a total rating of 7 out of 10. It lost points because the skin of the dumplings were too loose, the restaurant was a total mess and they used that gross putty to dam up the wholes in the dumpling. But these minor flaws paled in comparison to the tender pork, the savory juice and the scrumptious flavor. While the construction of the dumpling may not have been five stars, the friendly service (excellent family owned operation), nice venue (just across the street from a major temple gives this place an other worldy feel to it particularly when the prayers start) and tasty dumplings give the "imaginatively" titled "Taidong Soup Dumpling" restaurant the grand prize for my dumpling hunting in Taiwan.


After eating, I retired to an aboriginal hotel for a night of peaceful sleep. From your ocean sailing, gravity defying (literally), cave dwelling biker of the East Coast, Michael.

A Man and his Motorcycle Part 1

On Sunday, July 19th, I set out with nothing more than a backpack stuffed with a few t-shirts, one pair of jeans and shorts, fresh sets of socks and underwear, a toothbrush, a hairbrush, an atlas of Taiwan's roads and, most importantly, intrepidity. For on that clear, hot morning, I loaded my bag onto my 125 CC Honda Wolf Motorcycle and took off for an eight day journey around the island. It was to be my first trip on my bike more than a few hours outside of Taipei, and with 1,820 kilometers of open road stretched ahead of me, there was little I could do but wonder- what did this journey have in store for me?

The first stretch of road took me to Ilan, just about two hours outside of Taipei along the East Coast. A simple drive to the Pingling mountains of Southern Taipei County, I arrived in small hot spring village of Jiaosi where I booked a hotel and decided to stay there for the night. That afternoon, I was meeting a group of friends of mine at an aboriginal Rain festival held at a park called Wulaokeng. Dotted with water slides, natural river rafting, pristine walkways, and summer fun, it was an enjoyable location to spend some time with friends on a hot summer afternoon.


The highlight of the celebration was a concert that included a well skilled drumming group from Korea. Their beats were rhythmically tight. It was an astonishing display of musical prowess, precise timing, and energetic perseverance. The Korean drumming group was accompanied by some eloquent, traditional Chinese dances.


Following the concert, my friends returned back to Taipei where I returned back to my hotel in Jaiosi. I stopped for some dumplings and a soup, but they were dry and relatively tasteless. I decided to make it a mission to try soup dumplings wherever I went on this trip and rank them. These dumplings were obviously last place. After dinner, I retired to bed for an early start the next day.

The first real leg of my journey began on the second day out of Ilan. It was an early morning, and the weather was acceptable. I veered off of the coastal route for some mid-island mountain driving. Going down route seven was an easy mountain road to follow for the most part. Sparsely traveled meant I had enormous lengths of excellent driving conditions all to myself. The road began by following a wide valley dotted with numerous cabbage farms. It was a unique blend of blue skies, rocky outcrops, and little green dots lining the road side.


It wasn't long before the farmlands were behind me and the road started to climb. In low gears, I was soon driving through a cold cloud as my elevation rose and rose. Before long, however, the cloud broke away and I was back in the sunlight of Taiwan's pristine weather. However, the scenery changed dramatically at this point. No longer was I in the tropical splendor of southeast Asia, but instead I was biking through some of Taiwan's lesser known alpine climates! It felt as if cool wind from the Alps were blowing against my face rather than typhoon-laced winds of the South Pacific.


Nevertheless, the surroundings were outstanding. Little stands occasionally set up along this road, particularly in the rural villages, were selling freshly picked peaches and plums that would explode on one bite. Then, you could suck out the very juices and embrace the fact that what your eating could not be any more natural, wild or organic even if you tried.

Before long, route seven linked up with route 8, which makes up the eastern corridor of the Central Cross Highway (one of three highways that crosses through the central of the island, the other two being the Northern Cross Highway and the Southern Cross Highway which made up a portion of my trip). This highway was outstanding. The road wound and turned, through clouds and sun, through forests and over cliffs. At times, there was nothing stopping you from making one wrong turn and plummeting into the gorge below. Tunnels were carved right through the rock faces, but these tunnels are not the tunnels we think of today that are nicely finished with concrete and lighting. These were like mining caves that had no smooth finish to them. They were dark as they had no lighting and they leaked with water constantly. Needless to say, driving through one of these tunnels required a calm demeanor and a keen sense so you wouldn't hit the very dark walls.


Eventually, the winding road took course along a very recognizable feature in Taiwan- Taroko Gorge. The majority of tourists start out in Hualien and drive up into the gorge. Not me, I was starting at its source- at its highest elevation where the gorge was youngest and least developed. It was a unique perspective, to watch this gorge deepen as the kilomoters flew past me.


Before long, I was in Taroko Gorge National Park proper, with which we are all very familiar from my previous posts. The river ran like a vein cut deep into the earth with massive waterfalls and tributaries contributing to its impressive glory. The weather turned a bit disagreeable at this point, so I pushed through most of the park quite quickly and into Hualien.


I stopped for some delectable wonton-esque soup called Bianshi. I am not sure how they improve upon it, but they do an excellent job with it. I think they put a little bit of vinegar in it, which explodes the flavor, so now I always add vinegar to all of my wonton experiences. I followed up with some soup dumplings but was again very disappointed.

I hit a local popular bar where I met some very delightful teachers from Korea, chatted with them for some bit, and then hit the sack for an early departure the next day.

From the cabbage farmer of Taiwan, Michael.