This leg of the journey was why I wanted to do this trip. A drive along the East Coast of Taiwan is considered to be one of the most prized rides of the whole island, commencing in Hualien (although, in reality, could start in Ilan) and finishing in Taidong. Contrasting drastically with the mountain road I was on the day before, this coastal road was mostly wide, straight and easy going. Surely, a day was all that was needed to get from top to bottom.
Waking up early in Hualien, I was relieved to see blue skies out over the ocean and to the south of me along my route. I packed up, hopped on board my bike, and took off. The sun was shining, the cool air was blowing in off the ocean and my happiness clocked in at maximum levels. The road, while winding at times, remained largely clean, sparsely trafficked, and beckoning. Because I had left early in the morning, there was a noticeable absence of tour buses, trucks and other cars on the path. I was alone with my thoughts, my bike, and my island. I was a man with his motorcycle.
It wasn't too far from my point of departure when I got my first glimpse of the beauties that stretched out before me. I had come around a sharp turn and decided to pull off into an over look. Below me was Nioushan (Cow Mountain) beach and a small cove of intricate delight. I puttered about before casting of for my next destination: Shihtiping. Less impressive than the curious Yeliou of the northern coast, this little outcrop provides unique glimpses of volcanic rocks eroded by wind, time and sea. After a brief viewing of the 1 kilometer outcropping, it was a straight shot to the tropics.
Taiwan, while considered to be a sub-tropic island, hosts many fascinating micro climates. Starting a day in Taipei, it takes a simple 45 minute train ride to leave the dark and gloom behind and find oneself in the sunnier times of Taichong. Crossing the tropic of Cancer is usually a sign of permanent fine weather ahead. Taiwan marks the Tropic of Cancer with an enormous white monolith, separating subtropics from tropics, or as I like to say, sunshine from better sunshine. But how many times can you say you have driven a motorcycle over a major lattitude? 10 times at least in my case. There is a great thrill to ride a bike back and forth over a major geographical (albeit imaginary) demarcation, so I had no qualms about riding my bike back and forth a few times for prolonged enjoyment!
Now continuing my trip, and being permanently in the tropics, I decided it was time to check out the caves of Basiandong. Pulling over just south of the Tropic of Cancer, I stormed up some stairs in the blazing heat to see the Caves of the Eight Immortals. The formation of these caves are quite interesting. Standing at over 150 meters above sea level, they were carved out by the ocean's tides. Tectonic uplift has now pushed them high above anymore hydro-related bashing. What's more stunning is the age of these caves. While I do not know when they were formed, archeological evidence has found prehistoric, stone-age artefacts (such as tools) dating back 30,000 years. This suggests the caves once harbored Taiwan's earliest inhabitants well after the caves rose from the frothy seas.
Coming out of the caves is a curious little turn off you won't find in the guide books. Driving along, I saw a sign for "Water Running Up" and couldn't shake the idea that is must be some type of illusion. So I pulled into the little park, plopped my bike over in the corner, and made my way to the small stream where the water was supposedly running up. It was a pretty dam good illusion. Enough that I ended up sitting there for the better part of an hour following the stream UP the hill around the corner, inspecting each little turn bump or anomoly until the water disappeared into the rocks. I was a regular Sherlock Holmes trying to determine why the law of physics did not apply to this particular locale. It was then I got the shuttering thought that perhaps I might indeed fall into a antigravity wormhole and with nothing to hold onto, hurdle out into the endless depths of space. Not particularly enjoying this thought experiment, I put my detective skills to rest, jumped back on my bike and made due for a very lovely place called Sansiantai.
With no connection (that I know of) to Basiandong, Sansiantai, or Three Immortals Platform, is a collection of three unique little islets of rocks with a pesky and obnoxious little bridge connecting them to the mainland. With eight absurd arches leading the way, one could spend some time on truly lovely platforms admiring Taiwan's rocky coastline. However, if it weren't for the exhausting 8 arches on the bridge, perhaps you wouldn't be so exhausted once you arrived at the end and not want to continue on. A little exploration was conducted and deserved, nonetheless, for such an invested arrival. But it wasn't long before I returned back to the start of the walk and sat down for some fried rice and a mango smoothie. Interestingly, it was I who became more of the sight seeing attraction than the three immortals because as I went up to get my bike, a young couple with a baby approached me. They threw the baby into my arms and immediately started to take my picture with it. No warning, no permission. It did cross my mind that this young couple, too distraught with the overwhelming responsibility of parenting, sought a better life for their young daughter with a young American biking around Taiwan. Fortunately, they did not leave me with their young (who was screaming and tearing as it was being held by this complete stranger) and took her back permitting me to go along my way.
My last stop before arriving in Taidong, my destination, was a place called Siaoyeliou, or a smaller version of the impressive Yeliou along the North coast already commented on in this blog. I found this place neither impressive nor memorable and of no comparison to it's big brother up north. Still worth a trip, though, if you're in town.
It was around 5pm when I rolled into Taidong, a quiet lazy city on the southeast part of Taiwan. The streets had no, or few, traffic lights and they were barely littered with cars. Buildings never towered higher than six stories and the citizens were tanned, broken locals of the beetlenut chewing variety. Although Taidong lacks the frenticity and class of Taipei, it contained a unique charm and a glimpse of traditional Taiwan life.
It also had the winner for the best Xiaolongbao on my trip, with a total rating of 7 out of 10. It lost points because the skin of the dumplings were too loose, the restaurant was a total mess and they used that gross putty to dam up the wholes in the dumpling. But these minor flaws paled in comparison to the tender pork, the savory juice and the scrumptious flavor. While the construction of the dumpling may not have been five stars, the friendly service (excellent family owned operation), nice venue (just across the street from a major temple gives this place an other worldy feel to it particularly when the prayers start) and tasty dumplings give the "imaginatively" titled "Taidong Soup Dumpling" restaurant the grand prize for my dumpling hunting in Taiwan.
After eating, I retired to an aboriginal hotel for a night of peaceful sleep. From your ocean sailing, gravity defying (literally), cave dwelling biker of the East Coast, Michael.
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