Here Comes the Bride

I have family here in Taiwan. On my mother's side, my Uncle married a girl named Clare who is absolutely wonderful, and I spent the day with her when I first arrived in Taipei. And on my father's side, my cousin married a girl from Taiwan who is equally wonderful. She is now in Taipei to visit family and friends, celebrate Chinese New Year, introduce her new daughter Tia Jade O'Neill to her family in Taiwan and celebrate her brother's wedding.

That means I got to join in for the ride on all these exciting Holiday traditions in Taiwan. How wonderful of her and her family to include me in on everything.

After our delicious lunch together at Ding Tai Fung when she first arrived, I didn't see her until the next weekend at her brother's wedding. Held in Bancqiao, it felt like I arrived for a massive feast to end all other feasts. I was greated again by my cousin and Tia at the door with open arms. She lead me down the bangquet hall where I met her father for the first time- and absolutely wonderful man!

Yuhsin, my cousin, showed me to my seat with two familiar faces- her nieces Zoe and Lily. These two girls have absolutely marvelous English skills on top of being the most gracious of hosts. A little silliness ensued, before the rest of the guests arrived and the show began.

The bride and groom took their seats at the main table while of procession of firework weilding individuals lead the way. This was the introduction to the most intriquing of weddings I have ever attended.

In the United States, weddings are solemn ceremonies, followed by a lavish dinner and dancing. Here, there is no dancing, but rather we are treated to a dinner and a show (apparently it is up to the bride and groom to entertain the guests). During our TWELVE COURSE MEAL, including food I have never before seen in my life, we were bedazzzled with light shows, speaches, videos, slideshows, Japanese drum performances, and a toast to the happy couple.

In the end, the evenin turned out to be truly spectacular. It felt like I was able to attend the wedding of my first cousins that I had unfortunately missed a number of years ago. On the way out, I gave my congratulations to the newly weds, met Yuhsin's mother (who made a flattering remark on my devilishly good looks) and took off for home.

From you wedding crasher of Taipei, Michael.

The Elephant's Head

One thing about Taipei is that it spoils even the stuffiest of hiking enthu- siasts! On one parti- cularly lazy morning, I found myself with a sudden urge to explore the mountains around Taipei. But the late hour would mean I wouldn't be on the trails until well in the older side of the afternoon. Fortunately, you don't actually have to leave the city to go hiking. Four animals mountain starts right at the base of Taipei 101, finding any late sleeper without an excuse as to why they aren't hiking that day.

The trek up Four Animals Mountain begins with a short introduction to the several species protected here. (Ironically enough, the four animals for which the mountains are named- Elephant, Tiger, Lion and Leopard- are not found in the park. They are named as such for the striking resemblance the mountains have for these four animals. Please note these names are also served with a heaping dose of imagination.) A former park ranger, I found this to be interesting and opted for a short read. One particular animal which caught my eye was the Taipei Tree Frog. A seemingly unspectacular creature at first, turns out to be amusingly interesting when one happens to glance at its Latin John Hancock: Rocophorus taipeianus. Sorry- not butt jokes here, I think the name speaks for itself.


Ok, now that we have gotten all that infantile humor out of the way, back to Four Animals Mountain. With my giggles shaken away, I proceeded up the main path to the first outlook in about fifteen minutes: Elephant's Head Mountain. This litterally scales an upward ascent parallel to Taipei 101, giving some outstanding views of the building and the city.


Furthermore, this vantage point allows you to see just how BIG Taipei 101 is compared to the surrounding buildings. Sometimes it's difficult to guage its height and the scale is somewhat vague when you stand right below it. But, from this angle, you can truly appreciate its massive worth.


The trek continued on, somewhat unimpressively, through the mountain tops before dispensing me in the western edge of the Xinyi district. I got home, cleaned up, and joined a few good friends for some delicious, albiet extremely expensive, pizza at NY Pizza Kitchen. From your late start to happy ending (more giggles?) hiker who never left the city except in spirit, Michael.

我不懂 中文

Trans- lation: I don't under- stand Chinese. But that is all about to change my friend. After spending 16 months on this island, I have fortified the strength and determination to master the Chinese language. Thus, on December 3rd, I stepped onto Shida- Taiwan's Normal University- and enrolled in an intensive Chinese Language Program.

In addition to my 8 hours a day work week, totaling 40 hours altogether, I will be attending two hour seminars each every night Monday through Friday, to learn Chinese with my teacher: Janet. I am the only American in this class, along with two Canadians, two Vietnamese, one Japanese, one French, one Korean, and one Mongolian.

I have been in class now for two weeks and I have mastered writing about 80 characters- an accomplishment I am rather proud of. I did well on my first two exams- coming in Flawless the first time with a 100% and a respectable 96% the second time around.

The class is enjoyable, with lot's of incidental language to go along with the text book. I can say important things like, "I have a huge stomach" and "You are my shining star" and "I am not a beautiful woman". Important phrases you need to use on the street, of course. But speaking aside, I have to admit I am immensely enjoying the writing aspect of the course. I aliken it to my time as a park ranger. When I first started out as Mikey the Bear, I didn't know an oak tree from a telephone pole sticking out of the ground. However, as I took my guidebook out into the forest, my identification skills quickly developed and soon did my appreciation of the natural world. Now, here in Taiwan, being able to recognize characters is opening up whole new worlds for me. While I can't read entire signs yet, sometimes I can pick up a few characters and then make an inference as to what the sign is trying to say. Obviously, my appreciation of my surroundings has exploded since he start of my classes.

But perhaps the best part of my day comes at the end of my class at precisely 8.20. This is when I pack up my belongings, grab my bag, and head over to Yong Kang street. Aside from being the BEST street in Taipei, Yongkang street is home to my new favorite restaurant, and aparently I share that trend with a vast majority of people from all over the world. I speak of none other than Ding Tai Fun.

Everynight I have been ordering a basket of Xiao Long Bao, or Steamed Pork Dumplings. The most delicious morsels I have ever put in my mouth, I can't even begin to rave about this restaurant. But you don't need my opinion to know this place has something worth eating. Perhaps the line of 100 people outside waiting is evidence enough. Or maybe that this restaurant was listed as one of the top ten gourmet restaurants in the world by the New York Times. Now I know you don't need any convincing that this is a pretty exclusive and reputable list. Then, you may be even more delighted to know that when it was placed on this list in 1993, it was the only Chinese style cuisine to be featured on the list.

A Xiao Long Bao is a special thing. It is a translucent dumpling filled with tangy soup and fresh pork stuffing. The individually wrapped dumplings are steamed for 8 minutes in the basket before they are served. They arrive, still in the basket they were cooked in, piping hot. Now, before you dig in, it's important you look around first- the dining set is rather simple, but spotless, and the design has no preconceived notions of Feng Shui. You have to wonder why this place was on the top ten list in the first place. Well, you're about to find out.

You pick up a Xiao Long Bao and dip it into some sauce you prepare yourself: three parts vinegar 1 part soy sauce. You then soak some ginger slices in the sauce before placing them on the dumpling. You delicately pick the dumpling up, careful not to let it burst, and place it on your spoon. You take your chopstick and puncture a wound into the side of the Xiao Long Bao to let the soup inside flow free. Then, with one heaping bite (and careful not to burn yourself) you inhale the sauce soaked Xiao Long Bao with the ginger and soup altogether. We remains is an affirmation that these ten little dumpling rightly belong on the New York Times top ten list of the best gourmet restaurants in the world. Here is a perfect example of a place that doesn't need to spruce things up aesthetically because it is their product that makes people come back again and again.

Ding Tai Fung is now my favorite. I go their almost every night and befriend the massive wait staff because they are so friendly and engaging. They always remember my name and ask me how things are going. They treat you like royalty and it is fantastic. And yes, I can eat at least three baskets of Xiao Long Bao!

From your "我 是 大 胃 王" of Taiwan, Michael.