The Lin Family Garden

On Thursdays, I am fortunately blessed with an excess- ively long midday siesta. I finish a lesson at noon and don't reconvene in the classroom until quarter to five. This gives me plenty of time to get lunch, go to the gym, or take off for hidden jewels in the city. This particular Thursday lunch event brought me to the finest example of a Chinese garden in Taipei- the Lin Family Garden.


Located in the Banchiao district of Taipei, it was no simple ride from point A to point B. In fact, no more than a few years ago, before the MRT opened up, the best way to reach this district was by train. And then, even before that, Banchiao was even considered a township outside of the city of Taipei where the seat of the local ruling government was planted. Today, easy access and planning is turning this section of Taipei into one of it's fastest growing suburbs. What used to be rolling mountains and charming rivers is now replaced by massive sky scrapers.


The Lin Family was one the most prosperous, and therefore most powerful, families in Taiwan during the Ching Dynasty. In the 18th century, Lin Ying-Yin transplanted in Taiwan from the Fujian Province in China. As master traders between Taiwan and China, the Lin Family began to accumulate vast amounts of wealth. Their master project, however, came at the distribution of salt to all of Taiwan. Ping-hou, Lin Ling-Yin's son, shared the risk and profit of this venture, and at the age of 50, returned home to Fujian with enough cash to purchase a government position for himself. Eventually he retired and returned home to Taiwan.


Clearly, Banchiao was never a place, strictly speaking, "for the birds".


During the Chang-chou and Chuan-chou clashes, Ping-hou commissioned the construction of a mansion with massive walls, comparable to any well suited fortress, solely for defense. Then in 1847, Bi-Yi hall was built and thus developed into the estate seen today.


Ping-hou had five sons, but only two were capable enough to carry on their father's and grandfather's sense of risk and expansion. In 1851, Guo-hua and Guo-fang built a 3-courtyard house next to Bi-Yi hall into the entire family eventually moved. The house was further developed by Guo-Hua's two sons- Lin Wei-rang and Lin Wei-yuan under the private tutelage of the famous scholars Lu Shi-tusen and Shie Guan-Chiau- with a house consisting of five separate courtyards and a taller order on the already impressive gardens.


After entering the gardens, I made my way along a long flowered pathway. Up to a square pavilion. To the right of me was the Lin Mansion and to the left was Lai-Ching Hall. This hall, being the tallest structure in the garden, served as a theater. Inscribed above it was the phrase "One smiles when the curtain goes up." A two storied structure, the hall was often used to quarter guests. It also gave some of the most impressive views of the surrounding countryside.


The mansion itself was quite lovely. It's construction began in 1851 and was constructed in Banchiao for convenience in collecting rent from tenants. Financing clashes between the Chang-Chou and Chuan-Chou immigrants, it is impressive the mansion still had enough funds to be built in such elaborate terms. At the front of the mansion is a small reflecting pool, symbolic of a mirror at the entranceway. Often times, landowners put mirrors at doorways so men could look at themselves and question the deeds they had done that day. The symbolism extended into the back as well, with mountain ranges protecting them from invasion.


The mansion itself has three courtyards, hence it has since become known as "The Old Three-Courtyard House." In addition to these courtyards, it has two walkways with parallel buildings on either side. The buildings were considered "protecting dragons" of the mansion that embraced the entire mansion, and in this sense, the mansion was constructed according to the following blueprints: "In a large house, nine embraces five. Three courtyards one hundred twenty doors." Essentially, the front ought to be nine bays wide with five bays making up the central unit. The "protecting dragons" embrace the five bays. Three courtyards is obvious, as evidenced by the name, and the refers to the number of windows and doors throughout the 52 rooms in the Entrance Hall, Ancestral Hall, and rear hall: a far cry from my studio apartment.


Each hall in the mansion served a different function. The entrance hall housed the sedan chair, the chair bearers, and housekeepers. The ancestral hall housed a shrine used to worship ancestral members. The main family lived on either side of the hall, while the elder members lived in the Rear Hall- a kind of retirement home in a way.


But perhaps, in my humble opinion, the most stunning aspect of this garden goes to the Banyan Shade Pool. A fairly elaborate reflecting pool doused in the shade of Banyan trees gives this unique location it's equally unique moniker. In the center of the pond is a tiny island, accessible by a stone bridge, with the words "Yun-Jin-Tsung" inscribed on a panel. From the island, you are presented with a very odd sight- a wall comprised of artificial mountain ranges. Supposedly, these mountain ranges were crafted to resemble the mountains in Chang-chou, the family's homeland. Exploration of these artificial mountains was permitted, although extreme care must be taken.



The largest quadrangular house on the estate goes to Ding Jing Hall. This was also the last part of the garden I visited on my walk. Taken from "The Great Learning" by Confucius, Ding-Jing means "To that calmness there will succeed a tranquil repose." Ding Jing hall was used as a place for entertaining guests. And, as I was making my way for the exit of this beautifully restored and immaculately maintained estate, I imagined myself a guest of one of those extraordinary parties. I pictured wonderful music, delicious foods, and bright colors as the hosts wished me off into the night.


And with my memory behind me, and the gardens, I made my way to work for some afternoon and evening classes. From a man who lived a life of ancient luxury, even if it was for only one hot and humid afternoon, Michael.