Monumental

After visiting the Martyr's Shrine, in occured to me that I haven't written up a proper entry on the monuments in Taipei. At the risk of absolutely boring you to death with this, I'll keep it short and brief.

This is the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall. It was recently changed to freedom hall and Chiang Kai Shek was covered up by kites. This was done because many Taiwanese still consider him to be a brutal dictator responsible for the murders of thousands of Taiwanese.

This is the Dr. Sun Yat Sen Memorial Hall. Basically, this guy created Modern China (but not communist China).

That's about it. Sorry to bother you. Mike.

Goodbye Old Friend

Shoes are your finest comp- anions. They see everything you see, but from ground level making them your least pretentious bit of clothing. They bear your weight daily and take hard poundings during exercise and hiking. Yet they give 100% all the time and make sure that, in the end, you always get to where you want to go.

A friend that takes this type of abuse surely can't last long. The average life span of a pair of sneakers is about 6 m0nths. When I arrived in Taiwan, I purchased a pair of Nike Cross Trainers (probably rip offs) after I absentmindedly left my old ones at a hostel in Hualien. I did not replace these sneakers for almost three years.

These shoes saw a lot with me- they climbed volcanoes in the Philippines and went clubbing in Kuala Lumpur. The toured the sights of Hong Kong and jumped off a tower with me in Macau. Needless to say, wherever I went, these babies were not too far behind, just below me.

So maybe that's why they looked they way they did in the end- rabid old hobo shoes hanging on to dear life by, well, a shoe string! The sole almost completely tore away, the shoe laces were unravelling at the speed of light, and the color resembled the darkest earth tones man could imagine.



So it is with fitting aplomb that I commend these vessels of feet, these tokens of traffic, these carriers along carpets, and bid them adieu. To you, the finest shoes I have ever had, always remember I believed in you long after most people implored me to throw you away. Of all my shoes past and all my shoes yet to come, I don't think I shall ever have a better pair.



From the guy too lazy to buy a new pair of shoes for at least 2 and a half years, Mike.

Free Falling

6 seconds. Imagine falling through the air for six seconds after starting out only 233 meters above the ground. 6 seconds with your heart in your feet and the wind accelerating past you at 32.2 feet per second squared. 6 seconds of death defying, whirlie-birding, stomach twisting, adrenaline rushing free falling sure enough to send any skeptic for a last minute repentance.

In the kingdom of extreme sports, Bungee jumping reigns supreme; and when it comes to doing something extreme, it's worth overdoing the extreme. In Macau, there is the worlds highest commercial bungee jump off the Macau Tower. Taller than the Eiffel Tower and the Space Needle, this is the granddaddy of jumping from high places- the colossus of columns, the titan of tumbling, the behemoth of bungee.

I arrived in Macau on the Red Eye from Taipei. My friend was working in The Venetian Casino and it was up to me to get over to see her. I took the free shuttle bus provided and was at the airport in a short five minute ride. I found the lounge bar she was working at (she was part of the lucky draw that night) and parked myself down for a few drinks while waiting for her to come out. In a few moments, she appeared and we caught up briefly about her new and exciting life in Macau. Apparently she gets free McDonald's food every day. When she got off work, I went to settle my tab but discovered all was on the house as I was friends with the ambassador of the casino! Already I felt like I won the jackpot!

The following day, I was due to meet up with my buddy from Hong Kong and his friend to do the big leap. Some crossed wires (and the fact that I didn't have a working cell phone) unfortunately meant that they did the jump while I waited for them in the lobby. Oh well! We finally caught up with each other after their jump and went out to a great little Portuguese restaurant called Francisco's. Although this place was a little out of the way, they had excellent food, Sangria, and a perfect little atmosphere to kick the night off well.

After dinner with a whole chicken, steak, sangria, espresso, and Grappa in our stomachs, it was time to hit the casino! We got The Venetian and found the lowest limit blackjack table we could find (I think it was US$25 dollars minimum bet) and prepared for a night of winning. I used all the tricks of the trade my dad taught me in black jack and, along with my two friends, we all came out in the black (or should I say in the black jack)! With everyone up about US$50 bucks, we called it quits and moved the party into the bar where we met my other friend who just got off work.

Our winnings went back into paying for the drinks, food and cigars as we lived the high life of high rollers for one great evening. With our winnings now firmly invested in our evening's entertainment, we reflected in the fact that, yes indeed, the house always wins. My friends took the ferry back to Honkers and I retired for the night to prepare for the bungee jump the following day.

I woke with surprisingly little effects from the night before, although I was a bit tired. My friend stayed in bed while I took a cab over to the tower across town. I bought my ticket and boarded the elevator to the top floor. Once I got up there, I checked in. Because I know a very smart and beautiful girl working for the company, I got a 30% discount! I made sure to get the pictures an videos as a thanks to the company and her generosity (and as a great souvenir for myself)!


After purchasing the ticket, I went and got suited up. The day was crystal clear and as such, there were a lot of a jumpers in queue. The wait to jump was about 2 hours and a lot goes through your mind in those two hours- what am I doing here? Why am I jumping? As you see all the people thrown over the edge, you really have to question your own sanity.


Finally, my turn came up. I was the last to jump in a small group of five. It's very surreal to watch people being tossed off a ledge like that. Nevertheless, this was very real. The jumping specialist chained my feet together, so I had to inch my way to the jumping platform. I felt like a prisoner being brought to his hanging execution. My heart was really pumping and I didn't make the same mistake you always see in the movies- I DIDN'T look down. In my head, there was a very big, loud voice screaming at me, "Michael, what the **** are you doing! Get the **** away from this ***** edge your ****** lunatic!!!" Pardon my french, but that little voice was really freaking out.

I finally reached the edge with every inch long step I took. The unhooked the safety harness leaving me only with the bungee cable. When they dropped the cable, the weight of it almost pulled me right off the tower. Then, before I could change my mind the countdown started.

5... Ok still time, very far away

4... I like even numbers, this is ok

3... Umm, don't you think you're counting a bit to fast?

2... Forget what I said about even numbers, I hate them, go back to 5!

1... This is the worst idea I have ever had!

Geronimo...

It took every ounce of will power to lean forward and fall off that ledge. The first two seconds I really felt like I was going to die. My knees turned to jelly, my heart was pounding faster than it ever has, the world was spinning around me, my stomach was in my throat, it was one of the worst feelings I have ever had- a feeling where you completely not in control and you are plummeting to your doom. It's also very silent at first which is tremendously eerie. But soon you start to hear the familiar sound of wind rushing past you and the deceleration slows as you reach maximum velocity. You get a handle on your environment and situation and before you long actually find yourself enjoying it. When you come to terms with the bungee, it's amazing how the worst feeling in the world quickly becomes the best feeling in the world.

Before long, you feel the tension of the bungee cord tighten and you know that the ride is almost over. The cord bounces back up where you remove the cord and they slowly lower you to the ground. When doing an extreme sport like this, scientists day that your brain floods with dopamine, the same chemical released during sex, leaving you with an immense sensation of euphoria. This is true- I couldn't stop smiling and laughing the entire way down.

For the rest of the night, I was on cloud nine. I joined the elite ranks of bungee jumpers anonymous and faced a great fear of falling off a building. It's a liberating, intoxicating sensation, and apparently it's also addictive. That's why I'm looking at other bungee jumps around the world, including one place in Indonesia where you bungee off a motorcycle.

From your free falling, whirlie birding, life betting bloke of Macau, Mike. Oh and here's a movie for you to watch!

The Martyrs Shrine

They say most New Yorkers never see the Statue of Liberty even though they have lived in the the city their entire lives. Well, I have done that with a particular location in Taipei- no not Taipei 101 or Snake Alley (I checked those off my list in the first week). For three years I had not visited the Martyr's Shrine. It was something I always wanted to do but never got around to it. It finally got to the point that I would save the visit for the end of my time in Taiwan. And with D-day not too far off, I decided it was worth a visit.

I hopped on my motorcycle and drove up past the grand hotel and American Club to find the entrance to the shrine. The entrance is guarded by two guards in pristine, white uniforms with a deadpan face of seriousness. I waited a good five minutes before I saw one blink.

After the entrance, the was a long walk to the next entrance to the shrine. Once there, however, you were overtaken by the silence and solemnity of the occasion. Lovely orchids greeted you while two more guards waited patiently on the opposite end- just as serious and a lot less touristy.

The Martyr's holds the remains the those died in the revolution in Taiwan. It holds military and civilian martyrs who fought bravely for the island's independence. Here they rest peacefully and as generations come to pay their respects and swear to uphold the ideals for which they gave their lives for.

The Martyr's Shrine may not be on many people's tourist list (and is in fact not in many toursit literature as it's a bit out of the way to get to), but to those who make the extra effort, even if it takes them three years to do it, they will be rewarded with a true treasure in Taipei.

From your better late than never guy, Mike.

Back in the Hive

In February, I put my life at risk for your benefit when I went to the Yuanshui Beehive Fireworks just outside of Tainan. I posted some very lovely videos of my time there and you all agreed I was certifiably insane. What shocked you even more was to know that these videos didn't present the worst of it. Therefore, I give to you for the first time ever, the world premier of the Yanshui Fongpao, aka The Beehive Fireworks!

Summer Fun

Ah, the summer months in Taiwan are officially upon us! For what could be one of the worst springs weather wise in Taipei, Summer has really made up for it rather well! The days have been hot, humid, sunny and full of happiness and friends, just the way I like it!

This summer has seen many many many beach days. There are two main beaches in northern Taiwan that beckons foreigners to their sandy edges quite regularly: Baishawan and Fulong. Of course there are many other excellent beaches in Taiwan, but these two seem to be the favorites.


Getting out to Fulong is a rather long trip- about 1.5 hours if the traffic is reasonable. The ride is a summery, windy, hilly, array of fun and excitement. It takes us through Pingxi village with the old lantern festival, down into rice paddies, and out to the ocean.

Fulong beach is a fun, clean and modern beach in Taiwan. It comes with resort type changing rooms and showers. The last time we were there, we were present for the Summer Music Festival. The music was just ok, so we spent the majority of time lounging on the sand. While we were there, a movie was being filmed. It must have been some sort of Avant Garde type film, since it pretty much consisted of a goat wearing a poncho with a sign written in Chinese saying "Where are you?" It does not seem like a film I would like to go see.


Alternatively, Baishawan is another excellent beach I go to often. Last time we went, my good friend Yoyo borrowed her father's car and drove four of us up to the beach. It was a bright sunny day when we got there (except Yoyo ran a red light and got a ticket for it) and the beach was crowded with day trippers from Taipei.


We got a nice spot under a tent, and then lounged around before going for a swim. After a nice day swimming around, we enjoyed the quiet journey back into Taipei. Although I have driven that road many times, it was nice to take the car this time. I got to sit back and relax and watch the scenery go by. I don't get to do that often on the motorcycle as I am constantly on guard.


These are lovely summers with lovely people. I hope the good times continue on, even if we can't always be with each other.


From the guy who stretches right up and touches the sky, Michael.

Here's to You, Pa!

Home can be a funny thing when you have been away for so long. The rearranging of the furniture, the new guests, the removal of shrubs, pools and trees, the addition of a garden, the repainting of a shed- all these things can really pull the rug out from underneath you when you're expecting certain things to stay they way they have always been. But even underneath all those changes, all those evolutions of your past, there will always be a sweet memory of comfort and belonging.


After Richard's Wedding in Taidong, I received a phone call that my last grandparent's health was failing. These things are tough, but being on the other side of the world makes them just that more difficult. I booked a flight home and was back in Boston 30 hours later, only to find out I missed my chance to say goodbye 12 hours earlier. I miss my grandfather, but I don't regret missing the chance to say goodbye. My relationship with him was not based on a goodbye. It was based on the last 25 years of being together, when I would spend the week with him as a child; when I would show him my new magic tricks and learn the good ones for his float in the July 4th parade; when he gave me my first car ever; when I would go down 2-3 times a week in high school and college to mow the law and sit and talk with him and my grandmother. I don't regret a minute of my time spent with him, and my time abroad was inspired by his love of travel and encouragement to see the world. So while I was not there for the one second at the end, I was there for the other 25 years and those are the things I think about when he comes to mind, those are the thing's I'll miss.


But in his great ways, he did one more thing for me- he got me home to see my nephew Mmamoon. The last time I saw Moons, he was just a month old and he slept quietly in my arms. Over the next year and a half he grew up not knowing who I was and that pained me greatly. But being able to see him at 1 and half years old was the greatest gift I had all year long- he was a joy in my life like none other. My grandfather brought me back to see my nephew so I could spend two wonderful weeks with him. Thanks Pa!


The two weeks home were bittersweet. Like I said- the new changes to the layout of my house was difficult. Returning back to my grandparent's home with no one there was difficult. But seeing the smile on Mmamoon's face the minute I walked in the door was one of the happiest moments of my life.


I relearned what it meant to play soccer out side. The sandbox was rebuilt for him and it was much deeper this time. We took ice cream trips (even though he couldn't even begin to comprehend how awesome the cold thing in his hand was right then and there). I went back to my pizza restaurant, my academy, my Maj Drag, to see my friends in Boston from high school and college, and all the things that define as American Mike and not Taiwan Mike. But I brought new things to the table too- I took my sister and her husband to a Taiwanese restaurant in China Town, my parents to a Dim Sum restaurant that, quite honestly, rivaled some of the fare in Honkers, and even ate at my sister's new restaurant!


The trip was an emotional slide between death and life, and all of us caught between. But like all my trips home, the greatest part was spending time with my family. My relationship with my sister and her family and my parents is something I will treasure. We were all living under one house, and while that can be stressful at times, it was really nice to see the old kitchen alive again with laughter and stories. I love my family very much and I look forward to spending time with them in the years to comes. So even as things change- no more pool, no more tree, no more bedroom- and as the faces around the dinner table come and go, some things stay the same. I have changed too- I have seen a great deal and tried many new things. My parents see me differently- they see me now as a young man that has spread his wings. Sometimes I fly high, sometimes I fly low, but in the end, I'll always fly home.


From the son in the Delta, Mike.